Last night I bolted a newly rebuilt TRS upper (totally different housing than the housing I chewed up gears in last summer) to my existing lower. Before I joined everything together both units turned freely, with little resistance. After I joined the upper and lower together they still turned freely, but after I tightened down the nuts I could not freely turn the prop shaft by hand, only if I put the prop on could I turn it. I could turn the upper by hand, but only if I used the larger area around the U-joints.

I went out to my boat to check the other drive and it turns freely with minimal resistance. I also checked 2 other TRS boats and while checking my other drive and they were a little harder to turn than mine, but I still could turn them by hand. 5 drives total

I then went back home and backed off the nuts 1-2 turns and it freed up the drive. I could turn it over by hand but still harder than the other 5 drives.

My next step I removed the shims from behind the bearing race in the upper (5 shims = 2-0.015", 1-0.010", 2-0.005" I think didn't have the calipers on me). I then put it back together putting 1 shim in at a time (repeated 4 times). I did this till I felt some resistance when I turned the prop shaft. preloading the race? It now turns smooth and with the same resistance as the other drive. I left out 1-0.015" shim.

My question is, did I do anything wrong?

there are preload specs that are listed in the factory manual, I would suggest buying one and setting it up properly, its not that difficult. The add/remove shim till it feels good method is not very scientific.

I have the manual and will check tonight. How would you be able to measure the preload? plasti-gage?

The correct tool is a depth micrometer,but a pair of dial calipers would work in a pinch.

I can get a depth micrometer at work. Do you measue the depth of the shims relative to the housing, or how far the race is seated into the upper housing. I will read in the manual tonight, but just wanted to get some heads up before I get home.