Thanks for the replies. GPM: The props are 30 pitch Bravo One and labbed 29 pitch mirage plus, on a 1.65 bravo drive, both props spinnng about 5000 to 5100 rpm.

Kent: you might be onto something. I did have to make some very minor steering inputs at WOT with the stock steering, but there was no science or rhythm to what I was doing, it just felt
"loose". I even wonder if the inputs I made were just me playing back and forth with the slop in the wheel. I certainly never felt any side to side movement that I was trying to correct for. Maybe with the play in the system my inputs were having a very slight impact on my drive direction and was just enough to bump the chine-walk rhythm off-balance. Now, without the play, the steering input is too much and I need to back off it a bit.

Payton: Are you saying that a slower-reacting helm can be found and that a less sensitive system might help? I spoke with Brian about the problem and he said he'd never heard of it before.

bounced,
How many turns lock to lock is your steering? That will give you and idea of helm volume. Is it easier to steer or does it take some effort. That will also tell you of the helm volume. I went thru the volume/easy steer program a few years back.
One thing to try and do is make a slight arc when you get close to the chine walk problem. If you put just a little bit of steer in one direction, it will tend to offset your correction. Dont turn the corner, just enough to make a very wide ark, if you know what I mean. If the boat stays put instead of chine walking, then you can figure out if you are over correcting. It may just be that your not used to the "wheel". I know if my 25' Check would start to get loose on me, I would turn it ever so slightly and it would settle down. BUT be careful!! Any handling woes can bite quick!

Hope this helps
Dick

This is great info!

I'm going to try to go out this afternoon and see what my lock to lock is. I don't remember.
At least with mine, there is some effort to steer. It is easier to turn left than right. RPM doesn't matter for effort. I assume this is because of the single ram (mounted on the starboard side). It feels like a ratchet gear in the wheel. I can move the wheel a little and it 'catches' when I let go. Each 'catch' is about 1/2"-1" on the wheel.
I wonder what difference the second ram would make??

Bounced, it will be interesting to hear about yours!
Kent

Have you tried a little more RPM,

Kent: I think even with the single ram system, as long as it's full hydraulic and not add-on, you should be able to steer the boat with one finger - I can, and I don't think the extra ram would make the difference. If your steering is stiff, give Brian Alfrey a call. He's always willing to help.

Mudball,
If you have full hydraulic, there should be no ratching effect. I would disconnect the ram and check the gimble for side to side and up and down movement. I know of one boat that handled pretty eratically and ened up being a broken bellhousing on the transom assy. The hydraulics maybe masking another problem. It should also steer the same in both directions. My buddy has double rams and 3 turns lock to lock. He can lay a finger on the wheel and steer it.. very nice. Mine has more effort and a larger helm volume, making corrections, somewhat faster and more sensitive.

Humm, interesting...
I went out last night and the steering is 2 1/2 turns in one direction and 3 in the other.
I do know there is zero slop in the gimbal. I checked that when I installed the steering system, three weeks and maybe 2 running hours ago (I was out of town for a while).

The 'ratchet' effect is strange. It seems more pronounced when turning right..
It is not 'hard' to turn, just not effortless. It's about like my Ford Explorer. Note that I have never had full hydraulic steering before, so don't know what I should be feeling.
Thanks for the input!
Kent

Kent,

You have more turns one way because you have single ram steering. It takes less fluid on the rod end of the cylinder because the rod is taking up space. You might also have different steering effort because the non rod end will have more surface area on the piston, so therefore will do more "work" with the same psi (remember, pounds per square inch).

bouncedcheque,

I have the dual ram XS performance system on my Checkmate 230 Enforcer. Now that I finally got to run the boat in "decent" water I have absolutely NO chine walk all the way up to my 79 mph (so far) top end, so I wouldn't think the steering would cause the chine walk if it's working properly. My steering is also a little stiff at idle...kindof makes docking a pain.


Doug

Doug: have you experienced any chine-walk in calm water? I haven't been out in a good chop yet - been calm up here - maybe that's more the problem. I would've thought you'd have that beast of yours up in the mid 80's. Are you turning full rpm yet? John.

The only time it chine walks is when I hit a wave at an angle above 75 mph, it "upsets" the boat and starts it rocking. All I have to do is back off the throttle for a second, countersteer into the walk, then WFO again!!!

I have had it wide open in dead calm water and in a good chop...It was definately faster with a little chop. In the dead calm water I was able to trim up so far that only about a foot of the boat was in the water and it didn't chine walk.

I just sent my prop out to have a little more work done to it, I'm only turning 5150 rpm, and need to be closer to 5400, so he is adjusting it a bit. This should get me in the low 80's..mind you this is with more than 1/2 tank of gas and all the gear in it...I'm sure it would go a bit faster empty running a 3 blade prop


Doug