1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

Need advise. This is the Cam Comp Cams recommended. As you know, you can call twice and get two different choices. Seems to be a lot of overlap in the duration. IS THIS CAM TO BIG?

Specs
454 being stroked to 496
9:1 Compression
IMCO Power Flow Exahust
781 Large Oval Ports nothing special
5,300 RPM MAX (scared to turn it faster )
Barry Grant 750 Sea Demon

Cam Suggested
Extreme Marine 11-240-4
@.050 Intake 234 Exhaust 244
Lift Intake 564 Exhaust 566
112 center line
RPM RANGE 2000-6200

Ted

I built a pair of 496ci last year with:
ported steel square port heads,
9:1 comp
6,300 rpm max
850 holley modified and blueprinted
Brodix intake

Cam: Comp mech roller
715 lift int and exh.
1:8 rockers on both int and exh( lift actually 757 now)
duration 266 and 274 @.050
sep 114

They work very well, 645 hp @6200rpm
Idle a bit fast for a bravo 1050 rpm

Your cam should work fine, BBc's love duration after 4000rpm.
Ted

blue thunder

I built 2 .070 over 454s 9.5:1 over the winter and used that cam. I am happy with the sound and performance, although I was getting reversion with my KE headers. Enough to milkshake the oil. I made inserts for my exhaust that converted my system to full dry so now no problem. Performance is good although I'm not propped right yet. My desltop dyno says 5500rpm is max hp point, so I just order new props to get in that range. I think the result will be good. One major problem I had was one engine wiped out two cams in a row during cam breakin. It appears soft lifters were the problem. I had to re-rebuild that engine a couple weeks ago due to all the metal flowing through my new engine. The 3rd time I broke the cam in I removed the inner valve springs which shouldn't have to be, although that is what comp cams says. The last cam set also came with a distinctively different lifter design that I believe was to address the problem I was having. Now that engine is all set and running good. I sent the cams back to comp cams for a refund. Time will tell if they have honor or not. So in a nut shell, I like the grind. Just the manufacturing quality is suspect for me at the moment. Maybe try to find another manufacturer with a similar grind.

BT

Griff

Too Big for your application and the rpms you want to run, in my opinion.

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

Wow 'wiped out two cams in a row' I would cry

I just wiped out an engine with 10 hours because I was not smart enough to change the oil cooler from a previous spun bearing

I don't need any milkshake so I think I will go back to the cam

I had in the original engine
226 236 @050 544 547

I suppose comp cams only pays for the cam if you wipe one out. I even got bearing debris in my piston skirts of my brand new pistons. Saved the timing chain and oil pump

RUSSSR1

You could look at it this way. Your Cam is never too big your Motor is too small

blue thunder

Here is a calculator I like to play with. Its called the mach principle or index. It doesn't directly address camshaft selection but will give you some idea of a good cam for your head selection. My mach factor is approx .56 is memory serves me which is respectable with this cam. I run rect port heads.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/machcalc.php

BT

vandeano

The same thing happen to me. Forgot to clean the oil cooler when I spun a bearing. At least you got 10 hrs. I barely got 1 hr.

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

How do you clean an oil cleaner after a spun bearing? That's what I thought I did and wiped out another engine. I cut the old one open this week, I don't see how you could take one apart and clean it. Bought a new one for $200 at the dealer.
JIM

Any more comments on that cam?

vandeano

BIGJIM, when you cut open your cooler was there still pcs.of bearing in there? I just finished rebuilding mine and I think i cleaned my cooler pretty good by just flushing it out. But I don't know what it looks like in the inside (maybe some pcs still stock in some cracks). I think I'm going to play it safe and buy a new cooler too.