T-Mone

I have got a bravo 1 outdrive that was always easy to shift in and out of gear. Over the weekend I put the boat in the water and it seemed that I had to put a lot more effort into getting the unit to engage into forward. I did the obvious and lubed the cables but it did not feel like it was in that. Just wanted to see if anyone could let me know if maybee I am missing something that may need to be lubed, greased etc. Thanks, Anthony

Outdrive1

You could also pull your shifters out and lube them as well as the bracket on your motor. Other than that are you sure it's not out of adjustment going into to forward? If it is it's usually just a couple of turns from being correct again. Bad part is your cables stretch after time and my need to be replaced soon. Especially the short cable from your bracket to your drive. That's usually the first one to go. Hows your maintenance on your drive and how many hours on it?

Mr Gadgets

Tmone,
Disconnect the cable from the bracket that goes up to the shifter. Make sure the motor is running and try to shift it at the bracket. Becarefull no good to be in the engine compartment while it is running, but....

If it still shifts hard, pull the drive and move the cables. If it frees up, then it is in the drive. You can pull the back cap off and take a look. The ball detent can get messed up.. after that. Well time for the book or a mech.. to look into it.. If you want to dig deeper I would be glad to help with advice..

Dick

T-Mone

Hey guys thanks for the info I will try looking into what your suggestions are and see what I come up with..Thanks again, Anthony

Rambunctious

yep, separate the possibilities and trouble shoot
mr. gadgets helped me with this too.

my problem: the end of the red cable had a slight bend. took the cable off and just the shifer cable was very stiff. started the engine and moved the lever (now freed from red cable) and sure enough, the drive went in like butter. bent the end of the red cable some and it slid like butter too. reconnected and all fixed...

thanks BTW mr. Gadgets

Ramb

Kidnova

Happened to me last season. Shifting started to get a little stiff, then got worse as time went on. Took the back plate off the B1, cleaned everything up, greased everything that moved, put it back together. Shifts like new now.

Mr Gadgets

Ramb,
Glad to help..

Dick

technicalx

Mr. Gadget,
since there are several threads covering this topic, I won't start another. I began having the hard to shift issue last weekend. did some minor checking and decided to get an adjustment tool. ordered it and when i called to get it, no one placed the order...so no adjustment tool. I placed an order for another from a different shop and it should be here Tuesday.

is there a way to adjust the linkage while trailored and without the tool? today is perfect and tomorrow is going to be the same, but haven't read any articles that tell you how to adjust without the tool.... It will go into forward and reverse, but not without force. i do not want to get a boat full and ruin there day out if i have to start jackin' with the shift problem i knew of before we went out.

thanx Mr.G

Mr Gadgets

tech,
sorry I didnt get back to this thread sooner, trying to get my motor assembled.
I have adjusted the linkage without a tool. There is a certain distance that the cable end should be in the slot.. I think it was 1 or 2".. I dont have a pic of it in my head, but the way it works is that the cable from the shifter, pushes on a lever with the another cable attached to a slot. So the closer it is to the end of the slot, the more travel it has. With the drive in Neutral the cable to the drive should be in the magic position so that it will push the shift fork and the cone clutch all the way into gear without going too far. Once you have that figured out, then the cable lengths need to be equal for fwd and rev.. I hope this makes sense. The drive will pop into gear if the detent is working properly on the back cap.
That is why I say disconnect the front cable and shift it.. if it goes in easy, then the drive is ok. If not then adjustments are probably not the problem.
How far the cables push or pull locates the shift fork with the cone clutch sitting in the fork. So long as it is in neutral position and pushes or pulls far enough to get all the way into gear.. your good.
Find out why it shifts hard, then when you get the tool.. make sure the adjustments are good.. That is how I would go after it.. It is kinda of a feel thing.. I know what is going on inside so I can tell what is happening when I play with the cable..

Good luck.. and sorry I didnt see the post sooner..

Dick

PS.. you could run the boat on the hose, keep the rpm at very low idle.. and make sure no one is by the prop.. I would back the boat into the launch on the trailer and mess with it.. If it isnt busy at the launch..

MnFastBoat

Mr. G, question for you.
I am having the exact same thing and I am going to the boat tonight to work on this.
By taking off the rear cap can you take apart the ball detent to clean and re-lube if needed? Or must yu remove the TOP cap also?
Just need to know because if it needs special tools then I will be removing the drive and taking it in
But I was giong to lok into the rear cap prior to removing the drive to check cable movement

thanks