I used the Mocal sandwich plate adapter. I can still reach the oil filter ok. If you use the K&N filter with the nut on the bottom it becomes rather easy. I used the mocal for the same reason. Eliminate a bunch of fittings and adapters. Using the Eddie Marine 3x20 cooler, Mocal sandwich stat and only about 3 total feet of 3/4 inch hose. I have the oil temp sender in the pan.

Cruise oil temp is about 185, 3500 rpm extented time shows about 210. WOT (blower motor) shows 215. I am happy with this setup. Side note on the Mocal. You can use a dremel tool to enlarge the passage. Every little bit helps.

I used the Mocal sandwich plate adapter. I can still reach the oil filter ok. If you use the K&N filter with the nut on the bottom it becomes rather easy. I used the mocal for the same reason. Eliminate a bunch of fittings and adapters. Using the Eddie Marine 3x20 cooler, Mocal sandwich stat and only about 3 total feet of 3/4 inch hose. I have the oil temp sender in the pan.

Cruise oil temp is about 185, 3500 rpm extended time shows about 210. WOT (blower motor) shows 215. I am happy with this setup. Side note on the Mocal. You can use a dremel tool to enlarge the passage. Every little bit helps.

Bump

A really good point came up on another thread-if you build a motor for your boat and don't dyno it or at least test run it before installing,a VERY important step- BEFORE going thru all the work of installing it- is to prime the oil system and test it with a electric drill. If you can't make 40 or 50 psi with a electric drill turning your priming tool-DON"T GO ANY FURTHER. There have been COUNTLESS poor souls who forgot a small detail-oil plug in a gallery,check valve,hoses backwards etc,installed the motor only to chase problems once it was started and the extra burden of tearing motor back and apart. My 14 volt dewalt turns it fast enough so it doesn't take anything real special for a drill either. Another point I want to re-iterate-if your oil system failed and put metal thru your motor before the rebuild-DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER re-using your oil cooler,even the best ones are only around 300$,there will be a chance metal is trapped in your cooler no matter how good you rinse it unless you have access to a professional flushing machine,don't chance polluting your new motor with it and destroying all your new parts!!!! Time and time again fellow oso'ers have oiling issues that could be prevented,Smitty

Good point Smitty. Most of the time I see shops or guys not clean the blocks and/or oil galleys good and thats were I see it eat bearrings,Rob

Some good info on this thread. Another trouble maker in GM crate engines and probaly others as well is unlike Mercury HP they dont seem to take the time to debur there blocks, I have seen blocks you can pull slag/ casting flash off of the oil drain back holes, rough edges around oil galley holes and elsewhere on these blocks ( loss of oil pressure after only 60 hrs.) Crap that if not removed will certainally find its way through oil pumps, bearings,ect. and do some damage. Some of these engines also have check valves up inside the filter/remote adapter that should be tossed as well. After deburing and preping a few of these one can have a better understanding of the merc HP verses GM crate cost differences. Another point worth mentioning is making sure your oil coolers are plumbed so that oil is flowing through your coolers against the flow of the incoming water, seems like a no brainer but Ii have seen it backwards on more than one installation.

It's been a while, so here is a bump

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Great Read very informative thread!

I agree...great thread!

This thread made me curious about something..

On a Gen V/Gen VI block, the fittings on the pan rails are plumbed for an oil cooler.. Why not run the cooler lines to these fittings, and remove the filter adapter housing, replace the threaded screw in adapter with one that takes a filter, add a relocator sandwich with lines, and mount the filter to the relocator lines..?

Of course, a thermostat controlled cooler would be used to regulate temperature..

No bypass valves would have to be changed using the process I just described....


Or would the bypass have to be changed as well.. If yes, then why? (The routing remains as designed by the factory, but flow may be slightly different as the additional lines from the filter relocator might have a miniscule effect on flow..) In addition, how would the priority main oiling system be affected by the changing of the bypass valve..?

This is only for a Gen V/VI, a mark IV is plumbed differently, and does not have priority main oiling from the factory... I have heeard some aftermarket blocks may have this, but not sure..

Comments appreciated.. If the pattern is not clear from the description I just wrote, I can post pictures of what I wrote..


Thanks,

Richard