Mr Gadgets

In order to remove the drive shaft, the retainer nut must be removed. To do that you need access to the front of the drive, which wont happen until it is removed from the transom assy..

I like the drop test that Nova26 described. All will be hard on it, but this one does use energy that is stored in the weight of the drive, just may work.

Running with props switched wont do much.. motor still turns one way. Compressed air in a cylinder to get it to turn opposite, but you still need to hold the shaft from turning... The sawsall maybe the easiest.. New coupler and input shaft. You may find the input shafts available used??

Good luck with this one. Let us know how it works out..

Dick

rbtnt

Here is something I read in a mag recently.

Disconnect the rams, remove the nuts, put a board between the front top of the drive and the gimbal, lift the drive from the prop shaft by hand. The board should be snug before you start.

You might leave the rams connected and use them to raise the drive with the board, but I would be afraid of breaking something.

Vinny P

I think I have a new input shaft around. Pm me if interested.

Falcon

If it's stuck in an "Aluminum" splined coupler, it might have worn the splines and jammed in the splines. You could try putting the drive in reverse and turn the propshaft backwards to pop it back into the splines. Might be worth a try.

Outdrive1

I dont know if this makes sense but if the transmission is in the drive, no matter what gear you are in wouldn't the drive shaft always spin in the same direction? I don't think it would be possible to spin it the other direction.

Boatfixr

Have someone rotate the motor slowly by hand while using a blunt point on an air chisel to vibrate the input shaft as near as possible to the coupler. You can use the drive rams to keep outward pressure on the drive by putting a cut 2x2 between the middle of the upper gear housing and lower gimbal ring. Trim the drive down against the 2x2 a little at a time. Keep greasing the coupler zerks each time the come around. The best air hammer to use is the Snap On long barrel if you can get your hands on one. Very powerful!

EvilTwin

Well I just lived through this. I destroyed a drive (internally) and a piece of gear must have momentarily lock the drive which led to the shaft twisting (the splines) in the coupler. The drive came off easy, but the shaft stayed because the last inch of case (with seal and shaft) had broken. I tried everything. Hooked my loader up to the shaft (universal) and tried pulling it out. No chance. I ended up cutting (filing) through the shaft. That takes a while and have a number of good blades. Had to pull the motor and change the coupler. Not fun and not cheap. Good luck.

klmken

I had an alpha stuck because the shaft was frozen to the gimbal bearing. Tried dropping it, and the roping the drive to a tree and pulling the trailer forward. Finally I hung the drive from an engine hoist and tied a steel cable to my lawn tractor got a running start and wham the drive and bearing all came out dandy.
Ken

ripley

go to your john deer dealer get a can of fluid film ,this stuff
makes wd-40 & crc look like cooking oil, best penetrating
solvent i have ever seen you might try spraying some on it
let it sit over nite

might help

duunoit

iTrader: (1)

I had trouble getting my drive out after I lost a gear in it. I did something similar to the above, but just dropping it didnt work. I had a 280lb friend jumping up and down on it. It came out and fell to the groundm but so did he. This is why it was stuck in the coupler.