Offshoreonly.com

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)
-   General Q & A (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q-20/)
-   -   Marine Lubrication (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/107808-marine-lubrication.html)

Pismo10 02-28-2007 06:11 AM


Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser (Post 2041075)
Wix Racing Oil Filter or K&N.

I hope they fit.

phebus 02-28-2007 09:01 AM

K & N Filters:


HP-2002 is 4.60" in Height &
HP-3002 is 5.52" in Height.
Both have anti-drain back valves and a can burst strength of 362.3 PSI which is almost double that of the Fram.

Hydrocruiser 02-28-2007 07:26 PM


Originally Posted by phebus (Post 2041582)
K & N Filters:


HP-2002 is 4.60" in Height &
HP-3002 is 5.52" in Height.
Both have anti-drain back valves and a can burst strength of 362.3 PSI which is almost double that of the Fram.


We just hear so much good stuff about K&N from the drag racers that one has to believe they are a great choice for offshore.

Unless you run over 1000 HP and need the Orange Fram Tin Cans..these are great.

Wix racing and Baldwin puts a lot into the case and core as well.

Mobil-1 and Amsoil are decent for 502's and 525's in non-racing applications as both are new and imrpoved for better efficiency and flow.

sleeper_dave 03-01-2007 07:43 AM

I just bought 12 quarts of m1 v-twin from www.cyclegear.com for $7.99 a quart. Everyplace else seemed to want $9-$10 a quart. I paid $10 to ship 12 quarts. Hopefully it'll get here with no problem.

I'm just running a stock carb'd 502. i plan on using v-twin with a m1-302 filter, and i'm going to try to get a whole season (50-80 hours) out of the oil with filter changes and an analysis every 20 hours or so.

Mentalpause 03-01-2007 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by sleeper_dave (Post 2042836)
I just bought 12 quarts of m1 v-twin from www.cyclegear.com for $7.99 a quart. Everyplace else seemed to want $9-$10 a quart. I paid $10 to ship 12 quarts. Hopefully it'll get here with no problem.

I'm just running a stock carb'd 502. i plan on using v-twin with a m1-302 filter, and i'm going to try to get a whole season (50-80 hours) out of the oil with filter changes and an analysis every 20 hours or so.

I buy it at the local auto parts store at LOTO for 7.79, but I buy more volume to get that price. Last month I picked up 8 cases.

Hydrocruiser 03-01-2007 11:39 AM


Originally Posted by sleeper_dave (Post 2042836)
I just bought 12 quarts of m1 v-twin from www.cyclegear.com for $7.99 a quart. Everyplace else seemed to want $9-$10 a quart. I paid $10 to ship 12 quarts. Hopefully it'll get here with no problem.

I'm just running a stock carb'd 502. i plan on using v-twin with a m1-302 filter, and i'm going to try to get a whole season (50-80 hours) out of the oil with filter changes and an analysis every 20 hours or so.

In a solid condition 502 expect you can safely go out to 60 hours on V-Twin. If you change the oil filter at 40 hours then getting to 80 hours is a reasonable expectation. A Group IV/V can go twice the manufacturer's recommendation with a filter change inbetween unless you are racing.

Fuel or water getting into the oil or running WOT extensively can change that scenerio.

Best thing to do is when chacking the oil smell and look at it closely.

sleeper_dave 03-01-2007 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser (Post 2043097)
In a solid condition 502 expect you can safely go out to 60 hours on V-Twin. If you change the oil filter at 40 hours then getting to 80 hours is a reasonable expectation. A Group IV/V can go twice the manufacturer's recommendation with a filter change inbetween unless you are racing.

Fuel or water getting into the oil or running WOT extensively can change that scenerio.

Best thing to do is when chacking the oil smell and look at it closely.

My big problem last year, according to the analysis, was fuel getting into the oil. I suspect the engine is running rich at idle, and plan to do a tune up in the spring. Also, the oil was running very cold last year, i will be adding an oil thermostat to bring up the temperature this year (since i usually start my boating season when the water temp is still in the 30's).

My plan is to change the filter and top off at 20 hours, and get an analysis. I will likely repeat that every 20 hours all season, unless the 20 hour analysis comes out exceptionally clean, then i may stretch the interval to 40 hours.

I looked around and never found v-twin at any local auto parts stores or at wal-mart. I'm in the Detroit area, maybe it just doesn't sell well enough here.

Hydrocruiser 03-01-2007 07:51 PM


Originally Posted by sleeper_dave (Post 2043306)
My big problem last year, according to the analysis, was fuel getting into the oil. I suspect the engine is running rich at idle, and plan to do a tune up in the spring. Also, the oil was running very cold last year, i will be adding an oil thermostat to bring up the temperature this year (since i usually start my boating season when the water temp is still in the 30's).

My plan is to change the filter and top off at 20 hours, and get an analysis. I will likely repeat that every 20 hours all season, unless the 20 hour analysis comes out exceptionally clean, then i may stretch the interval to 40 hours.

I looked around and never found v-twin at any local auto parts stores or at wal-mart. I'm in the Detroit area, maybe it just doesn't sell well enough here.

Mike at Sterling had told me a while back that if you smell gas on the dipstick change it.

Pismo10 03-05-2007 09:51 AM


Originally Posted by phebus (Post 2041582)
K & N Filters:


HP-2002 is 4.60" in Height &
HP-3002 is 5.52" in Height.
Both have anti-drain back valves and a can burst strength of 362.3 PSI which is almost double that of the Fram.

The K&N 2002 just wont fit, close but not there. So Ill try the Wix 51069R which is a little shorter. Will post success or not. Non-racing Wix 57099 will fit but how good are they? Will try the new M1-111 as well.

Thanks for the help. I need to remount and use the larger filters.

sleeper_dave 03-05-2007 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser (Post 2043679)
Mike at Sterling had told me a while back that if you smell gas on the dipstick change it.

Yes i've heard that many times, but that doesn't help.

I need to address why gas is getting in the oil to begin with. This is an NA motor, a stock 502 with under 150 hours since a rebuild. Hopefully some adjustments to the carb and new plugs and wires will eliminate the fuel in the oil to begin with.

If not, i'm going back to super cheapo oil because i'll be stuck changing it twice a month anyway.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:21 PM.


Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.