bglz42

From Blackstone:

JIM: The sodium in your oil is either coming from antifreeze or sea water, depending on how this
engine is cooled. In either case, it probably should not be there, but at least it doesn't appear to be
hurting anything. Most wear was lower than average, and the above-average copper is a result of
lingering wear-in at bronze parts. It should improve with time. The 1.0% fuel isn't a problem at this
level. The TBN read 7.2, still lots of active additive left. Check back in 20-30 hours. Hopefully sodium will drop.



509 Marine Engine NA

Oil Kendall GT1 20w50 Dino
Oil added 1 qt
Hours on oil 20
Hours on unit 200 approx
Date 7/20/2005

Aluminum 2 6 (Universal average is second number)
Chromium 1 2
Iron 17 22
Copper 53 39
Lead 6 186
Tin 1 2
Moly 67 31
Nickel 0 0
Manganese 0 4
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 2 1
Boron 11 40
Silicon 7 13
Sodium 56 16
Calcium 1941 1171
Magnesium 37 686
Phosphorous 851 791
Zinc 1016 928
Barium 0 1

SUS Vis@210C 77.4 82-95
Flashpoint F 365 385
Fuel 1% <2%
Antifreeze 0 0
Water 0 0
Insolubles 0.2 <.06

I'm very pleased with these results. Motor's wearing good, oil is holding up well. Excellent additive pack.

Jim

Hydrocruiser

Kendall GT-1 20W-50 is designed to be used in engines with turbos and other high performance applications. Looks like it is doing it's job very well.

The one thing to consider is that 20 hours use is the equivalent of running a car at 50 mph for 1,000 miles. The oil should be good and you should not see much wear.

We saw a recent oil analysis from a car that went 18,000 miles with Mobil-1 10W-30 and there was minimal wear in any of the oil samples.

I do know of a guy who runs 15W-50 Mobil-1 for 100 hours before changing. I need to get him to do an analysis. 100 hrs would be like 5,000 miles in a car going 50 mph. Not at all unreasonable.


During the 20 hours you ran the oil how hard were you running?

BajaRunner

depends on how you run it. 100 hrs is more like 5,000 miles in a car, in second gear.

bglz42

Ran it like I stole it!

mr_velocity

Come on Hydro, I thought you knew much more than that. A car is not under load 100% of the time like a boat is, there is no way that 20 hours in a boat is equiv to 1000 miles in a car. Maybe if that car is towing another car going up hill all the time.

Hydrocruiser

That was a dumb example I gave..I must have been brain dead...sorry.

So we know a car averaging 50mph with Mobil-1 (regular-not extended performance) 10W-30 can go 18,000 miles..hold it's TBN of 11 and have good additives to continue onward. That's 9,000 hours of oil service.

Now if you use the vehicle in towing a heavy trailer then figure you will need to change 2x as frequently so it falls to 4,500 hours or 9,000 miles.

Now if it were to be similiar to an offshore boat hauling continually you would have to drive the car at 100 mph pulling the trailer so lets figure then 4,550 mile drains or 2,250 hours on the oil.

Your samples came out great and I am not preaching to you to even so much as to consider to read this let alone change your use of GT-1.

It does suggest that we change our oil too soon when using synthetic oil and maybe 100 hours is more reasonable in stock non-hopped up/ non-blower boat engines.

Now your analysis showed a TBN of 7.2 which is good for a conventional oil. M-1 10W-30's is 11 and V-Twin's is 17. The main bearings run cooler with synthetic oils especially those with high TBN's. Sometimes bearing heat and stress does not immediately show wear in oil samples ...the bearings just seize at redline on one fine Sunday afternoon and the engine blows.

Synthetic oil has a greater film strength and protects better...not much can really measure this. We have heard major engine builders say they never saw main bearings look as good as they do with v-twin at teardown. That can not be refuted. It is what it is.

I guess synthetic oil is like faith..either you believe or you don't. I am not going to preach even though it's Sunday.

Your engine is in great shape...happy boating!

Hydrocruiser

Let's try to keep all oil postings in the Marine lubrication thread to keep it all in one place if possible.

bglz42

20 hours on my baby, period! End of story, ain't going longer...

The UOA's I just looked at on BITOG (motorcycle UOA section , they kill oil about like a boat...) shows MUCH lower TBN's than 11 & 17 (those must be virgin numbers, Hydro?).

M1 15w50 usually shows 8 or so TBN on reasonable OCI's, and V-Twin showed 9.6 TBN after 22k miles. OK, but not spectacular.

My TBN started out as 7.5, and only dropped to 7.2 after getting the crap beat out of it. FOR MY PURPOSES, this oil is working great for my engine. Just look at those lead and iron numbers...


Thanks!



Jim

Hydrocruiser

Motorcycles kick out tons more heat and shear so the TBNs don't crossover to marine engine numbers. We need more UAo's.

You are doing the right thing...20 hours and out...you knew you had more but why risk it? $2.00/qt it werks and you like it...

I used to use the same stuff for 5 years back in the early 80's myself before going to Redcap and later to V-twin.

If you forget everything about V-twin just remember it is very high in ZDDP almost double that of most conventionals. Worth it just for that alone. Your oil is great but V-Twin will kick your bearing temps. down enough to get an average of 10* lower oil temps. on the gauge. That is a huge reduction in main bearing temps. I have heard stories of having to go to coolers twice the size to get that kind of heat reduction across the board.

We have not heard of any other oil used on oso so far that can reduce oil temps by 10 degrees but M-1 V-Twin...by simply doing an oil change you get tons of heat relief. That's protection.

formula31