Dave1972

Looking for some feedback/guidance on this one.

I found a supplier of marine cable on ebay HERE

First of all...what is the difference between SAE Battery Cable and Tinned Battery Cable?

Secondly...I have a single engine boat with 2 batteries and a perko selector switch with poles of Batt1, Batt2, ALL, and Off. I like to use the deep cycle battery for the stereo only when sitting during the day, then switch to both or the other cranking battery for starting/cruising.

Next question...what is the optimal size of battery cable to use for this configuration that is still managable with the perko switch (figuring that HUGE cables won't fit on the switch)? I'm guessing that 2 AWG is standard size? Is this sufficient or should I go with something huge like 2/0 AWG?

Cosmetic question...stay with red and black or use other colors (I know yellow is an option but yellow is not in color scheme of boat graphics).

Last question...if I purchase the cable and lugs from this company...how do I have the lugs crimped/soldered? I can handle the soldering part but I believe those lugs take a special machine to crimp them because of their size. Local welding shop? Heavy equipment shop?

Please give me some help with this as I'd like to get these switched over within the next week.

Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dave1972

Stingray,
Thanks for the info...I will also be in fresh water 100% of the time. How about price...what's a fair price to pay for these? Will need battery positive X2, battery negative X2, and selector switch to starter positive...so 5 cables...which would mean 5 cables of maybe 2-3 feet each and 10 lugs with shrink-wrap....$50?

Should I try a local welding shop for the crimper? Maybe try them for everything? Where is a good supplier for the shrink wrap tubing?

Never heard of using vaseline under the shrink wrap...care to elaborate about that one?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!!!!!!!

Wobble

I prefer soldered connections and shrink tubing wherever possible. However these past few years I have been squirting di-electric grease in to all of my crimp connectors before inserting the wire. So far I have not seen any corrosion or problems. I think I may be onto something

Autozone sells an aerosol can by CRC I think, that is a lot cheaper than buying the small tubes.

Cord

iTrader: (2)

I used 1-0 cable on my boat. I found some really special flexible stuff. The tinned cable you are refering to would be ideal for a marine application. It has a coating of tin over the copper to help prevent corrosion. I bought a swaging tool and a short cable cutter and was able to make up the connections in the boat. I finished off with some oversized shrink tubing that I got from Napa. Red for hot, black for ground. napa also carries the correct cable ends. They may even have the hammer crimper. This is my source for the cable: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/1-0.shtml You'll find the Napa cable to be quite stiff. This cable is as flexible as a piece of rubber hose. When you order the cable be sure to add at least 10' to your best guess. This stuff gets used up faster than you would think.

Wobble-I believe that dielectric grease is non conductive, so never use it on push (blade) type connection. I learned this one the hard way.

Wobble

Cord,

You are correct, it is highly resistant to electrical current. However this is exactly what dielectric grease is intended for, it is a corrosion inhibitor and lubricant, works very well in trim senders switches etc. New cars have it almost every connector.

"Dielectric Grease is a non curing silicone compound utilized for sealing, protecting and inspecting electrical components and connectors. It waterproofs and protects against moisture and other contaminants in electrical connections. Dielectric Grease is translucent white, clean and clear in appearance. It exhibits high dielectric strength and is compatible with most plastics."

I don't understand why you had a problem with the blade type connector, unless you had a bad crimp to start with.

Here is just one example of it's many uses
http://k0swi.microlnk.com/REVIEW/BAT...C%20GREASE.htm

Dave1972

Thanks for the info guys....I should have known my neighbor to the east would offer a solution!!!

Is it cost-effective to do it yourself versus having someone else make it? I know that ideally I would like to solder the lug to the wire first, then crimp, then protect with shrink wrap tubing. I would need the lug crimper tool and a heat gun...am guessing I can cut the cable (eventually) by hand!?

Napa carries the lug/crimper tool(s)?

The cable that Cord suggested is very cool...I like the double insulation!!!!!!

Keep the suggestions coming.

Thanks again,
Dave

Cord

iTrader: (2)

I got my crimper from MAD. Heck, if you want I could loan it to you. I suppose I could even loan you my cable cutters. Just make sure it remembers where it's home is. They're not cheap.

I would not think of having anybody else make my cables. Making them in the boat is the only way to do it. A heat gun is great for the oversized shrink tube. Frankly, I just use a lighter though. One less cord (!) for me to trip over.