JBravo

Same way with a drain line out the bottom through the bilge drain! Anybody ever use Royal Purple in their motor?? I was running straight snythetic (vavoline) and switched 2 this 4 giggles and man does it smooth out the ilde and the hole shot (rpm wise). SAE 30 is what i run. Bone stock 7.4L with 300hrs.
just wondering..............

Hydrocruiser

We finally got an oil analysis of Royal Purple 15W-50..

Phosphorous....1126
Zinc 1213
Mg 22

.................................................. ........

The new Mobil-1 15W-50 EX Goldcap has:
Phos..1223
ZInc...1376
Mg 22

Very close chemistry in additives (M-1 having more ZDDP now)... the RP has 20% Group 3 carrier oils and M-1 is 100% Group IV or V..

hillbilly24

Flushing the engine is a great idea especially if you have fuel contanimation. One other littl side note though, when you unhok the coil you should ground out the coil wire from the coil. It can burn the coil up otherwise, rare occurance but it happens.

dykstra

iTrader: (1)

good info

Outdrive1

I think it's a little anal but if you don't mind going the extra mile than go for it. All I do is suck my oil out through the dipstick and change the filter. I'm sure there is still some oil in the lines and cooler, but I'm changing every 25 hours with 20/50 v-twin oil and usually an M-1 filter or a Napa Gold or something along those lines. I don't skimp on the filters or oil or intervals for that matter. I don't take that much time to do all the extra steps you do though. It takes me about half an hour to do my oil start to finish with the separator too, add another half if I do the drive oil too. I let it drain while I do the crankcase, come back when the motor is done and refill it.

Iggy

I'm with BADKACHINA I pull mine out through the dipstick tube.
About 40 years ago my dad built an electric motor hooked to a bronze positive displacement pump to change the oil in our first boat. I still have it and it's been adapted for my current setup. Works just as good today as it did 40 years ago. It'll suck the oil pan dry in less than 2 minutes.

The Menace

The Cig has drain lines from the bottom of the pan. Remove the cap from the line at the front of the motor and stick the suction hose on it. The more vacuum the better. Usually get and equivalent to what she holds. Change oil every 10-15 hours or when it changes color.

The Cat is dry sumped. Run the engines so all the oil is in the sump. Remove the cap from the reservoir. Remove the cap from the drain line which comes from the bottom of the reservoir. Stick the suction hose over the line and vacuum the tank. I change oil every 10 hours. Religiously.

boatn70

artic.....
when you say that you have condensation in the motor....what is it that you see? is it noticable in the oil or elsewhere? just curious cuz i have some moisture in mine too!! was really worried but some say its just normal for some motors. i started changing oil more often now because of this! i worry about winter storage with some moisture on the rockers and stuff!!

any input?
kevin

t500hps

Why change it....my 502's just burn it anyway.



25 hr intervals pumped through the dipstick. M-1 filter and 15-50.

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

If i pull the valve covers on my motor,especially after idling it on the hose where oil never warms up you will literally see some white foamed up oil in valve covers near water jackets on front of motor,maybe 2 tablespoons of foam.My comp cams(junk) roller rockers are starting to rust slight and discolor. These blower motors run at 90-120 degrees with just a water crossover,you can see condensation form from the cold water going thru block and heads. The aluminum heads don't help things either. I never go over 20 hours with oil,usually closer to 10 hours. It takes alot to get oil to warm up to temp with the 14 qt pan even though the oil cooler i run has temp bypass. Some of the water in michigan that i run in is real cooold,i hate to run my boat without getting oil good and hot,i laugh when i see these guys that love to show off leaving the ramp running there boats at wot after warming them up for 30 seconds,that KILLS valve springs,Smitty