Trailer brakes question
#11
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From: South Bend IN
Got the hub off tonight. I have never delt with bearing buddy's before and didnt realize that they came off like they did. Bent the tabs back and took the nut off with my fingers. The drum came off easy.
The shoes are shot. They dont look like they have been working for a while. The drum is bad enough that I dont think it can be turned. Everything needs replaced.
A friend of mine told me that he thought that I could buy the whole axle assembly with everything new including the brakes, bearings, and everything else assembled in one unit. Has anyone ever heard of such.
Another thing about this trailer is that it has 14 in wheels with 5 lugs. It was made by a guy in 1989 for this boat. It has no brand name or vin number. The boat is a 28 checkmate that weighs 5200 dry. If I can buy the assembly, where would I find the numbers or where should I measure to get the right parts. All suggestions appreciated. Dan
The shoes are shot. They dont look like they have been working for a while. The drum is bad enough that I dont think it can be turned. Everything needs replaced.
A friend of mine told me that he thought that I could buy the whole axle assembly with everything new including the brakes, bearings, and everything else assembled in one unit. Has anyone ever heard of such.
Another thing about this trailer is that it has 14 in wheels with 5 lugs. It was made by a guy in 1989 for this boat. It has no brand name or vin number. The boat is a 28 checkmate that weighs 5200 dry. If I can buy the assembly, where would I find the numbers or where should I measure to get the right parts. All suggestions appreciated. Dan
#12
Just take the drum and the hub to any decent trailer place, they will fix you right up with new. No real need to change whole axle unless upping the rating or the spindles are damaged
#13
What you want to do is buy loaded backing plates, they come with everything pre attached, the shoes, the wheel cylinders, and all the springs and retainers. Then just bolt em on slide some new drums on and your in buisness. They aren't all that much money, only about 150 for the pair. Any trailer shop should stock them and thy use a standard mounting flange.
#14
Originally Posted by hillbilly24
What you want to do is buy loaded backing plates, they come with everything pre attached, the shoes, the wheel cylinders, and all the springs and retainers. Then just bolt em on slide some new drums on and your in buisness. They aren't all that much money, only about 150 for the pair. Any trailer shop should stock them and thy use a standard mounting flange.
Eagle trailer stocks these assemblies this way. Super nice, quick way to do a brake job!
#15
Agree, no need for a new axle. Once you got the drum off, you should see about 4 bolts that holds the drum backing plate assembly to the axle. The backing plate holds all the misc. inner parts in place, brake shoes, springs cylinder, etc.. Then you'll purchase a new assembly that has the new backing plate complete with all these little pieces assembled, just bring it home and remount using the 4 bolts. If your in a salt area, I'd highly recommend going to disc brakes as they contain less parts and are easilty visible for fresh water wash down.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#16
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From: South Bend IN
Thanks for all the responses. I boat in lake michigan so salt is not an issue. I live 20 miles from Elkart IN where there is an abundance of trailer places. I will call them today. Dan
#17
#18
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From: South Bend IN
I would like to thank everybody again for the helpfull suggestions. It made the job alot easier. I got the loaded backing plates, new drums, bearings and seals for 150.00 for the set. I got everything put on tonight. I just got to replace a couple of brake lines and bleed the brakes and I will be done. It looks like its going to be a nice day on Sunday and I think I will take it for a test drive to the lake. Thanks again. Dan
#19
Make sure you pack those bearings before you put it back together. You can't just pump grease in the buddy bearing and expect it to grease the inner bearing. You need to take the bearing and grease in your hand, create a pump with your other hand and push it into the bearings. This is very important that they are packed well. Put grease in the hub on the inside before you put it on as well. Then put it together again, tighten the nut until the wheel drags and back off a tiny bit. Put your cotter pin back in and tap your bearing buddy back on. Then fill your bearing back up.
#20
BTW, are you gravity bleeding your brakes? You can lift the front of the tralier up high, open your bleeder valves and wait until fluid comes out, or you can have someone push the master in while you crack the valve open. Be sure to close the valve before the other person pulls the master back out to pump it again.


