Bravo Engine Alignment with Offshore Mounts
11-10-2005, 02:02 PM
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Bravo Engine Alignment with Offshore Mounts
OK, so I have a nice new transom and new outer stringers. My boat previously had TRS outdrives with the merc transmissions and "offshore" solid mounts. I'm rerigging my engine alignment pretty much from scratch. (twin big blocks)
After careful measurement and re-measurement the transom holes are cut and the transom assemblies will soon be mounted. I have new bravo HP transom assemblies with corresponding bravo flywheel covers (bellhousings) and the solid plate "offshore" type engine mounts.
This is how I'm planning on setting the engine placement correctly. I will have an adjustable engine hoist plate which will allow me to tilt the engine side to side and front to back.
I plan to hang the engine on a chainfall and drop the engine straight down onto the rear engine mounts. (bellhousing to inner transom plate using a new mounting bolt kits). I plan on moving the chainfall towards the front of the engine at this point to allow the rear mounts to carry the weight they would normally be taking (at rest).
Then I will raise or lower the front of the engine and move it side to side until the Mercury Bravo alignment tool slides freely thru the gimbal bearing and into the engine coupler.
Holding the engine in this position I will place the aluminum angle iron against the engine plates and stringers and drill the bolt holes in the same manner as they were previously. After carefully drilling the holes, I will insert the bolts and tighten them up. Hopefully the alignment tool will still slide in and out freely when everything is tight. If not, I made a mistake, and will have to correct it.
Am I missing anything?
Thanks!!
Dan
After careful measurement and re-measurement the transom holes are cut and the transom assemblies will soon be mounted. I have new bravo HP transom assemblies with corresponding bravo flywheel covers (bellhousings) and the solid plate "offshore" type engine mounts.
This is how I'm planning on setting the engine placement correctly. I will have an adjustable engine hoist plate which will allow me to tilt the engine side to side and front to back.
I plan to hang the engine on a chainfall and drop the engine straight down onto the rear engine mounts. (bellhousing to inner transom plate using a new mounting bolt kits). I plan on moving the chainfall towards the front of the engine at this point to allow the rear mounts to carry the weight they would normally be taking (at rest).
Then I will raise or lower the front of the engine and move it side to side until the Mercury Bravo alignment tool slides freely thru the gimbal bearing and into the engine coupler.
Holding the engine in this position I will place the aluminum angle iron against the engine plates and stringers and drill the bolt holes in the same manner as they were previously. After carefully drilling the holes, I will insert the bolts and tighten them up. Hopefully the alignment tool will still slide in and out freely when everything is tight. If not, I made a mistake, and will have to correct it.
Am I missing anything?
Thanks!!
Dan
11-10-2005, 03:45 PM
#2
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Re: Bravo Engine Alignment with Offshore Mounts
Sounds good. Might start off with smaller bolts at first and tighten them good, then remove the chain. Now the motor and mounts will be tight and carring the load. If all is still good, drill each hole for the larger bolt 1 at a time.
11-13-2005, 04:47 PM
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Re: Bravo Engine Alignment with Offshore Mounts
Actually You May Want To Try Using A Bottle Jack Or A Sort Of Lifting Devise From Under The Engine Due To The Fact If The Boat Is Not Firmly Blocked Or Jack Standed, You Will End Up With Mis-alighnment After You Finish This Task, If Using An Over Head Lifting Devise.
Due As You Stated, How Ever Using A Bottle Jack To Avoid Slack In The Chain Or Things Of That Nature. Make Sure The Stringers Are Free From Un Even Surface, Such As Gel Coat Or Paint Build Up.
Now Achieve Proper Alignment By Raising Or Lowering The Engine. Once You Can Slide The Alignment Tool In And Out With 2 Fingers Clamp Your Pre Cut Angle( Which Should Be 4x3 1/2 L Chanel) To The Engine Plate, And Stringer.
Proceed To Drill The Stringers First. Once All Holes Are Drilled Insert Bolts (1/2") And Tighten Evenly. Checking Alignment With Each New Hole. Once Both Sides Are Drilled Proceed To Drill Plate To L Chanel Holes, And Insert And Tighten Bolt After Each Hole Is Drilled, All The While Checking Alignment After Each Hole And Bolt Is Prepped.
Do Not Remove Jack At This Point Remove Chanel Paint Or Whatever , Re Install Mounts With A Bedding Compound Such As 5200 Tighten Evenly And Reinstall Plate To Mount Bolts With Anti Seize.
If Done Properly They Should Look Like This When Your Done.
Due As You Stated, How Ever Using A Bottle Jack To Avoid Slack In The Chain Or Things Of That Nature. Make Sure The Stringers Are Free From Un Even Surface, Such As Gel Coat Or Paint Build Up.
Now Achieve Proper Alignment By Raising Or Lowering The Engine. Once You Can Slide The Alignment Tool In And Out With 2 Fingers Clamp Your Pre Cut Angle( Which Should Be 4x3 1/2 L Chanel) To The Engine Plate, And Stringer.
Proceed To Drill The Stringers First. Once All Holes Are Drilled Insert Bolts (1/2") And Tighten Evenly. Checking Alignment With Each New Hole. Once Both Sides Are Drilled Proceed To Drill Plate To L Chanel Holes, And Insert And Tighten Bolt After Each Hole Is Drilled, All The While Checking Alignment After Each Hole And Bolt Is Prepped.
Do Not Remove Jack At This Point Remove Chanel Paint Or Whatever , Re Install Mounts With A Bedding Compound Such As 5200 Tighten Evenly And Reinstall Plate To Mount Bolts With Anti Seize.
If Done Properly They Should Look Like This When Your Done.
