Go back to school.

Ive been looking at that on Ebay as well. Did they send everthing on time, give you what they said?

540: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BBC-5...spagenameZWDVW

572: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BBC-5...spagenameZWDVW

$3499 each

Thanks

Close but not really, A 622 vs a 540 would cost $200 more to bore, the pistons are $175 more, ( JE vs SRP) Rings are $45 more, crank is $500 more, ( SCAT or Eagle vs Callies) you also will need a large oil pan to clear the crank which would be $400 more than a GM. A GM pan will hit with a 4.5" stroke and H Beam rods.

I agree, its not that much more for the HP change, but it does cost about $1200 more. Then you have lots of Bravo issues. It seems the 555 is the most HP vs Cost vs Bravo life you can get. Should make a good reliable 650HP with a decent set up. For more risk takers a 588 will only cost the oil pan extra over a 555 and should make 700 HP. The 588 will have a bigger torque number which could make a Bravo cry for help.

I have allways liked bigger motors to and try to baby the Bravo.

Here's some thing I have found that will be the cheapest way to convert a 502 to a 555. I have 500EFI's in my boat that I did some work to last year and got them up to 572 HP. It was in the Nordic boat section.

First Bore the 502 block to 4.560, Cost $250

Scat makes a 4-454-4250-6385-L crank, External balance, 1 pc rear seal, 4.25 stoke, .250 longer rod. CNC motorsports offers it on there web site for $629. The beauty is you will not need a seal adapter for the rear and you will be able to reuse the 502 balancer, fly wheel, & oil pan. This saves $$$.

Use Scat 2-454-6385-2200 Rods, CNC sells for $369. You can add the L19 bolts if you think you will need them.

SRP makes a new shelf Piston for a 555, Part #231513. I have not found a price on line yet, but I assume it would be the same price as the next smallest. Estimated Price $547

Rings Moly File Fit $155

Have assembly balanced, Est $140

Bearings 2 x $60.

Cam could be a 168741 or I am leaning towards a 168771, which I hear Plaff uses in his 565, 700EFI. $300 Make sure you get the copper looking core Crane cam. The black cores are breaking at the dist gear and Crane does not recomend them for Marine use.

Make sure you clearance every journal.

I also use the Mellon 10778 Oil pump. Keep the high presuure spring in it, braze the GM pickup to it. Make sure you take the spring out before brazing or welding. Cost $ 80

Est cost $2590.00 If you want save the 502 short block, see the Ebay link above.

You get what you pay for.....

MHP1

Not everyone needs the best of everthing nor do they have unlimited budgets. Just trying to suggest something that will outlast GM motors

I suppose it's a matter of a persons's perspective, but I personally think that isn't too bad of a deal on those short blocks on E-Bay. Five years ago when my engines were originally 540's they had the Eagle H-beam rods, Eagle 4340 cranks, and SRP pistons in the Merlin II blocks dyno tested at about 680hp or so and they worked fine---especially for a hi-perf non-race application---at least they worked well for me. Someone else may have had a different expereince. As with any crank just make sure it is prefitted to the bearings and every main saddle of the block, and the rods. Actually, I think the Dart Big "M" block is a better block than the Merlin II's I now have.

Today, in my 565cid engines I still have the Eagle 4340 H-beam rods, but since going with a larger bore size I now have replaced the SRP's with JE flat top pistons, and have replaced the Eagle cranks with some fully counterwieghted Lunati 4.25" 4340 cranks. I probably didn't really need to replace the cranks, it's just that I prefered the fully counterweighted cranks. I think even Eagle now makes a fully counterweighted crank and it appears that the ones pictured on Ebay are just that.

Were you spreading the Christmas cheer?

They were about 1 week behind when they said it would be ready, I bought the assembled short block. I saved the shipping by picking it up. I'm VERY happy with them, and would do it again if I had to.

I understand.. The thing you have to watch out for with the Eagle stuff is alot of the journals will vary in size . Oil clearence setting is important to check on both rods and mains. I deal with this stuff daily from the best of components to the lower end more affordable ones. When machined properly the stuff will lasy along time.