BajaIceBreaker

Maybe I should just leave it be? Maybe the bottom paint that's on there will be sufficient since I plan on pulling it out of the water every few weeks for a cleaning?

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

Buy a lift, problems solved

formula31

Assuming your marina allows lifts. Mine doesnt. The VC is ablative. If it will stick to what you have on there now, you wont be disappointed.

BajaIceBreaker

If a lift was in my budget, this wouldn't be a problem

I'm thinking I will leave just put a coat of paint on the bottom, the re-caulk the existing thru hull fittings, and make 1 small repair in the gel coat. Then I will pull it out of the water for a few days for a good cleaning and a drying period.

That should probably do it... right?

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

Don't laugh about the lift. Before I got mine I thought the same way. Best boating investment I have ever made hands down Start looking at the price of the paint and materials and maintaining it, cost of gas and time transporting the boat. I always thought bottom paint brought the value of the boat down.

Its so nice to just lower the boat down, throw the cooler in, and go.

BajaIceBreaker

The only lift I can put at my marina would be an airbag lift. They typically run around $4000. There's no way I can justify a lift on my first season of in-water dockage. I am sure that anyone with a lift did not have a lift in thier first year. That's goes along with the growing pains.

Everyone probably wishes that thier first boat was a 40 footer too.

formula31

well no. re-caulking around things under the water doesnt work, they need to be re-bedded.

I have no respect for most of the boat manufacturers. They dont bed anything correctly and some of the ways they deal with attaching things to fiberglass are criminal. My transom was shot due to the manufacturer just screwing the tabs screws into it without proper bedding. Silicone has no place on a boat IMHO, much less under water.

Once water gets to the coring, major major stuff needs done (read boat is junk). If your going to stay in the water, Id pull all through hull fittings, screws, anything that is attached to the hull under the water line. Transom assemblies are usually ok. Check that the glass and coring is dry. Then there are a couple ways to go. You can re-bed everything with some 4200 or 5200 if you never expect to take it off. Or, you can do it right and drill oversize, and seal or plug with west system, then fasten into the west system. That way, no matter if the fitting or fastener comes loose, it wont allow water in the coring. This goes for the inside of the hull too, stringers, bulkheads, transom.

It may be fine the way it is. Thats what I thought too. Definitely do the Magnesium "Zincs". You wont believe how fast your drives will corrode away. Keep the antifouling paint 1/4" away from the drives. Dont paint any transducers. I use Trilux 33 on my drives, ugly but easy to clean in the fall and nothing sticks or grows to them.

BajaIceBreaker

Glad you said that... These are the kind of things I need to know.

Questions:
1) Is that Vivid bottom paint what you call antifouling paint?
2) What is Trilux 33? Wax?
3) What is 4200 or 5200? Sealant?


Thanks for all the good advice.

formula31

Dont know #1

Trilux 33 (used to be Trilux2) is an antifouling paint for aluminum. It is a thick vinyl based paint. Not pretty but it works, I brush it. It can be sprayed.

3M marine sealants. The 4200 is great for bedding things that might have to come back off. The 5200 bonds so tight that taking anything off is not easy, not impossible but not easy.

West Marine, Boatus any of those types of store have this stuff.

Boatered.com is a great place to find out about this. Not performance oriented by any means but the biggest cruiser site I think.

BajaIceBreaker

Thanks. I think I'll head up to Boaters World tomorrow.

If I pull the boat out every couple of weeks for a cleaning, then what is the minimum I will need?

Trilux 33, Bottom Paint and 4200?
Bottom paint and 4200?
4200 Only?