Outdrive stand and lift homemade no welding
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04-06-2008, 07:41 PM
#62
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Finally done
Had a slow day at work so finally made one
Ran to Northern Tool and they did not have the one I wanted, but one that has a round weld mount atatchment that I used.
I also did use the qucik release mount and as well as i like the idea of being able to take apart for transport and storage it does offer some additional 'slop' in it and leans forward.
Hindsight if i would have known this I would have shimmed it at an angle back to have it level out. Right now the drive 'tongs' angle downward
However I think this should be easily overcome by a plastic shim I plan on making at work sometime
Here is a couple Pics, I went with Blue to 'somewhat' match the boat
Ran to Northern Tool and they did not have the one I wanted, but one that has a round weld mount atatchment that I used.
I also did use the qucik release mount and as well as i like the idea of being able to take apart for transport and storage it does offer some additional 'slop' in it and leans forward.
Hindsight if i would have known this I would have shimmed it at an angle back to have it level out. Right now the drive 'tongs' angle downward
However I think this should be easily overcome by a plastic shim I plan on making at work sometime
Here is a couple Pics, I went with Blue to 'somewhat' match the boat
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04-08-2008, 07:07 AM
#63
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Just wanted to say a big THANKYOU! for the drive stand pictures and drawings.
Turned out better then one could imagine.
Actaully very easy to do with the tools at work
Gotta love government work days
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This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
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02-26-2009, 07:00 PM
#67
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Nice work.. how about some pads on the drive tongs?? to protect the paint on the drive?? I have my jack sitting somewhere, just no time. You did a nice job!!
02-26-2009, 09:09 PM
#68
Made a quicky fixture last week to hold the lower so I can rebuild it. (Or hold the upper by moving the 1 adj. bar over)
Not pretty by any means, but it has to be heavy duty so not to flex when using a 4' cheater bar to set the prop bearing preload. The 2 outer U brackets are slotted to open on the 2" sq tubing, and are pulled down tight with the lower bolts. All surfaces that make or can make contact with the drive have a rubber pad glued to them. No scratching here.
Not pretty by any means, but it has to be heavy duty so not to flex when using a 4' cheater bar to set the prop bearing preload. The 2 outer U brackets are slotted to open on the 2" sq tubing, and are pulled down tight with the lower bolts. All surfaces that make or can make contact with the drive have a rubber pad glued to them. No scratching here.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 12-02-2011 at 11:12 AM.
02-26-2009, 10:04 PM
#69
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However I did not like how thin the counter sunk mounting bolts left the delrin
So I removed that and just used the soft side of velcro strips
Smooth, scratch free, sticks to the 'tongs' well and blends right in so you cannot see it
However that was added in after I took these pics so that is why you question it
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This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
02-26-2009, 10:08 PM
#70
Are we having fun, yet?
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Brought this thread back to the top because I'm still getting messages about the drive stand measurements. Glad you guys are taking advantage of this and it's working for you. I have a couple more projects in the works. We'll see how they turn out! 
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Jay
Jay
