nordic95

Before I install my engines I would like to install flush kits.I would like to know who is using what type,brand,and your opinion on ease to use.Twin 502,1991,32 fever.

Thanks Nordic95

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

make them yourself. The tee with the plastic elbow was my 1st shot, but then I remade them, but with the SS elbow. Just need a tee, hard walled hose, and the garden hose attachment.

GOODT

Check out pro flush have used in many setups .........can get as kit with remote hose hook up ect about 100-150 per mtr

nordic95

Will that hold up to high water pressure at cruise speeds.Always makes me a little nervous with plastic on sea water hose.

Goodt,I like your Idea ,but don't you need a valve to shut water off to drive when flushing?

Thanks Nordic95

GOODT

no it has a check valve in it and I have used these on 950hp with no problems

nordic95

I'm sorry I ment to ask US1 that question about the valve.
Goodt,do they ever need any kind of service?or replacement?should they be mounted in and easy to get to location?
Nordic95

GOODT

just mount between the water intake and the seawater pump, run 1/2 hose to garden hose adapter...all done very easy and strait foward

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

No valve needed. When I hook up the hose and turn on the water (with motor off), the seawater pump impellor acts like a shutoff valve and forces the water backwards out thru the drive, flushing it. Then when you are happy happy joy joy to the drive flush, simply start the motor. At which point the water will automatically go into the pump and stop going thru the drive. Since it is only a 6" distance, impossible to have a dry start! Cool eh? The seawater pump will pull all the water thru it. No valves, no mechanical parts to stick/fail, no plastic parts. Way make it more complicated than it has to be?

disclaimer, I haven't seen the setup GOODT posted to see the thickness of the plastic. But it has at least 3 joints in it, whether be glue or a threaded joint. From the picture, I would prefer to see a longer joint for more strenght. Something to consider. I'm sure Joe would say if any pconserns in that area.

With that being said, you do have to make sure the filler cap is installed and tight so under normal lake running you are not pulling air thru that fitting interupting the water suction from the drive. Many feel safer with a valve in the flush line (either at the valve or near teh tee) to act as a saftey device in case of the cap coming lose. I have yet to have that issue as long as the rubber gasket is in there. So no valves for me.

I used the hardwalled hose bought from WM to prevent any chance of it being sucked flat while flushing. I agree with your plastic parts below the water line, which is why I remade my tees, minus the plastic elbow. Those hardware pvc tees are just not trustworthy enough for me. 1 failure, start swiming. However, the seawater pump is plastic, sooooo. A buddy has the plastic tee and elbow on his boat with no problems.

This setup works so damn easy it is pathetic. All these yrs screwing with muffs, hoping the muffs will stay put and not slide down (which was a cause of a brand new pump to last 30 secs ) no conserns about dry starting (lack of suction) ARE OVER!

Either setup appears to be the exact same, but with just a different philosophy. Both same installation process. Be fine either way.

GOODT

If you would rather use a set up like the one usa1 is talking about, the ts can be purshased from sonic they will sell them I havent bought any from them since the new owners but im sure they will still sell them they are stainlass with hose barbs on them......

nordic95

Who is sonic?Web site?
Nordic