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team Tickfaw 02-20-2006 08:09 AM

Engine Break-in
 
Thought that I was going to be ready for Mardi Gras but maybe not. While breaking in engine no.1 after about 10 min. had oil going into bilge. Shut engine off and appeared to be coming from somewhere inside crankshaft cover. Small amount of oil coming out off top bolt hole on cover. Alot of oil coming from inside of cover.
My question is since I shut down the break -in procedure early, is this going to have any ill effects to the engine? When I restart do I start over with time (30 min.) ?
I belive I have a rear main gone or maybe gasket pushed out, hard to belive cause all the attention to detail that was put in.
Also have another question for someone.... since the problem with the no. 1 engine I have not ran no.2 yet. Was thinking on running it while no.1 is out as to see easily for any leaks. Will a water hose rigged directly to the inlet of the water x-over give enough water for 30 min @ 2500-3000 rpm? I was thinking of just bypassing the raw water pump and coolers but dont know if its a good idea. When I ran no.1 I had it backed off at the ramp. Cannot obviously put boat back in water with one outdrive off. Maybe someone can give me some ideas.
By the way if anyone was wondering I used this forum to build engines by and have kept a list of all work and parts that was used, for the 10 min it did run it sounded great. I will post everything later. For oil to breakin I 'm using Rotella straight 30 with 16 oz of GM EOS additive that was recommended by several sources. Engines are '89 454 330 hp slightly modified. Will give full details.

GOODT 02-20-2006 08:16 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
let me get this strait you are breaking these mtrs in static at 2500 rpms ????

am I missing something........

PatriYacht 02-20-2006 08:22 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
When you say crankshaft cover, do you mean timing cover or oil pan? It is not good to stop an engine with a hyd. flat tappet cam before the breakin is over, however it is a little late now. If it has hyd. roller lifters no problem. Oil leaks are common. Annoying but usually not a big deal. When you go to reasemble, clean all gasket surfaces with laquer thinner then use silicone on both sides of each gasket. Don't use too much or it will glob up inside the engine. When you restart ,reprime the oil pump and continue the breakin until the time is up.

paradigm shift 02-20-2006 08:25 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Flat tappet cam I bet. I would not try and run it on a hose. I know my water pressure and hose will not flow enough for extended runs above 2000 rpm.

PatriYacht 02-20-2006 08:27 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
3000 might be a bit much but 2000-2500 is correct.

ratman 02-20-2006 08:57 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 

It is not good to stop an engine with a hyd. flat tappet cam before the breakin is over,
since it looks like your going to have the timig cover off i would pull the cam and re lube it! make sure you DO NOT MIX UP THE LIFTERS AND BE SURE THE GO BACK IN THE LIFTER BORE THEY CAME OUT OF. it would really suck to have the cam fail to break in and litter the engine with metal particles, then you have to tear it all apart and start over. good luck with it, let us know what you find. rm

team Tickfaw 02-20-2006 10:14 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Sorry I may have not been clear on where, what I meant was the flywheel cover. On the stactic time explain a little. See the engine builder was performing the breakin and had done the priming and initial timing. I can find out . I was there also and seen the amount of oil that was coming out and felt like we needed to shut down. On the rpm to run for cam breakin this came from cam card. Yes it is a flat tappet cam. Thanks for any help

formula31 02-20-2006 11:50 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Rear leaks. check the 2 plugs at the end of the lifter oil galley, then the bigger one for the oil pad, then the pressed in plug at the end of the cam, then the rear main seal. Be real sure to look at the plugs carefully for a hole. Its amazingly easy to get one of the cam chain lube plugs with the tiny hole in it somewhere else in the motor, BTDT.

Are you by chance running a cast aluminum pan? If so, the threaded hole on each side of the rear main seal is open to the pan and needs to be sealed.

PatriYacht 02-20-2006 01:48 PM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
I had an engine rebuilt once and the rear cam plug fell out after the engine was reinstalled. Oil leaked out about 2 quarts in a half hour. Lucky we stopped for gas and checked the oil. :eek:

Pwrbt33 02-20-2006 03:38 PM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Just some food for thought also... check to see how far the cam plug was pushed in. I have seen some people put the plug in so far that the cam actually rubs a hole in the plug and leaks oil out everywhere. Just one more thing, make sure you didnt get a reverse rotation crank seal kit by accident. Have seen that as well. Oh yah, like everyone else said, also check those pipe plugs in the 2 oil galleys just above the cam plug. just my .02.

Good luck.

John S. :D

team Tickfaw 02-20-2006 08:11 PM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Just pulled engine. Found that one of the pipe plugs did indeed have a hole in it. Now having a problem removing the plug. Allen wrench just keep turning inside. Maybe too much thread lock? Not sure. Not sure how to remove the plug. Any suggestions? Heard you could heat plug then use candle wax on the plug to cool quickly to make it shrink to help break it loose. I may try this with an ease out.

GOODT 02-20-2006 08:18 PM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
just heat alittle will sofen / melt the loctite

formula31 02-20-2006 08:27 PM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Do the heat and easy out in the hex first, but if you have to drill it for an easy out, have somebody run an oil pump primer and drill in place of the distributor and pressurise the oil system so if flushes the stuff out while you are drilling.

PatriYacht 02-21-2006 08:09 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Do the same thing you would with a wrench on a rounded off bolt. Get a metric allen for a socket wrench 1mm larger and hammer it in if you can. Use heat on the plug then see if it will turn.

team Tickfaw 02-21-2006 08:51 AM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going back down to where I keep the boat today(1 1/2 hr drive) and start off with some heat and larger allen wrench then go from there. Really don't want to drill into unless last resort. Will a hand propane torch get hot enough or do you think I need to drag my oxy/act tourch with me? Have a set of those "ease out" tools from craftsmen that I never have used, going to try them also.
Trying to get together for our 20 year mardi gras boat parade and party. This is always hosted by "crazy charlie" at blood river landing. Who also puts on the Tickfaw 200. He is having the cast of "the real gilligans island" reallity show come this year. Charlie won it this past fall. What a hoot..coon-ass come out of da swamp an win tha cash.
Will keep ya'll posted and again thanks for all the info.

team Tickfaw 02-21-2006 11:16 PM

Re: Engine Break-in
 
Got the plug out by using some heat and using one of those ease outs that looks like a screw. Glad thats over with.
Now while breaking in the no.2 engine as I first fire it up sounded like it wanted to have some valve clatter coming from one side. Progressivily got alittle worse and the side in question exhaust temps were getting very hot. Checked timing, checked spark plugs, crossed plug wires on that side. Have engine builder coming by thursday to hear engine and decide what he is going to do. You ever have one of those projects that just seems to defy you? Can anyone give me some clues on what to look for? thanks again.


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