Engine Break-in
02-20-2006, 08:09 AM
#1
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Engine Break-in
Thought that I was going to be ready for Mardi Gras but maybe not. While breaking in engine no.1 after about 10 min. had oil going into bilge. Shut engine off and appeared to be coming from somewhere inside crankshaft cover. Small amount of oil coming out off top bolt hole on cover. Alot of oil coming from inside of cover.
My question is since I shut down the break -in procedure early, is this going to have any ill effects to the engine? When I restart do I start over with time (30 min.) ?
I belive I have a rear main gone or maybe gasket pushed out, hard to belive cause all the attention to detail that was put in.
Also have another question for someone.... since the problem with the no. 1 engine I have not ran no.2 yet. Was thinking on running it while no.1 is out as to see easily for any leaks. Will a water hose rigged directly to the inlet of the water x-over give enough water for 30 min @ 2500-3000 rpm? I was thinking of just bypassing the raw water pump and coolers but dont know if its a good idea. When I ran no.1 I had it backed off at the ramp. Cannot obviously put boat back in water with one outdrive off. Maybe someone can give me some ideas.
By the way if anyone was wondering I used this forum to build engines by and have kept a list of all work and parts that was used, for the 10 min it did run it sounded great. I will post everything later. For oil to breakin I 'm using Rotella straight 30 with 16 oz of GM EOS additive that was recommended by several sources. Engines are '89 454 330 hp slightly modified. Will give full details.
My question is since I shut down the break -in procedure early, is this going to have any ill effects to the engine? When I restart do I start over with time (30 min.) ?
I belive I have a rear main gone or maybe gasket pushed out, hard to belive cause all the attention to detail that was put in.
Also have another question for someone.... since the problem with the no. 1 engine I have not ran no.2 yet. Was thinking on running it while no.1 is out as to see easily for any leaks. Will a water hose rigged directly to the inlet of the water x-over give enough water for 30 min @ 2500-3000 rpm? I was thinking of just bypassing the raw water pump and coolers but dont know if its a good idea. When I ran no.1 I had it backed off at the ramp. Cannot obviously put boat back in water with one outdrive off. Maybe someone can give me some ideas.
By the way if anyone was wondering I used this forum to build engines by and have kept a list of all work and parts that was used, for the 10 min it did run it sounded great. I will post everything later. For oil to breakin I 'm using Rotella straight 30 with 16 oz of GM EOS additive that was recommended by several sources. Engines are '89 454 330 hp slightly modified. Will give full details.
02-20-2006, 08:22 AM
#3
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Re: Engine Break-in
When you say crankshaft cover, do you mean timing cover or oil pan? It is not good to stop an engine with a hyd. flat tappet cam before the breakin is over, however it is a little late now. If it has hyd. roller lifters no problem. Oil leaks are common. Annoying but usually not a big deal. When you go to reasemble, clean all gasket surfaces with laquer thinner then use silicone on both sides of each gasket. Don't use too much or it will glob up inside the engine. When you restart ,reprime the oil pump and continue the breakin until the time is up.
Last edited by PatriYacht; 02-20-2006 at 08:31 AM.
02-20-2006, 08:57 AM
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Re: Engine Break-in
It is not good to stop an engine with a hyd. flat tappet cam before the breakin is over,
02-20-2006, 10:14 AM
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Re: Engine Break-in
Sorry I may have not been clear on where, what I meant was the flywheel cover. On the stactic time explain a little. See the engine builder was performing the breakin and had done the priming and initial timing. I can find out . I was there also and seen the amount of oil that was coming out and felt like we needed to shut down. On the rpm to run for cam breakin this came from cam card. Yes it is a flat tappet cam. Thanks for any help
02-20-2006, 11:50 AM
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Re: Engine Break-in
Rear leaks. check the 2 plugs at the end of the lifter oil galley, then the bigger one for the oil pad, then the pressed in plug at the end of the cam, then the rear main seal. Be real sure to look at the plugs carefully for a hole. Its amazingly easy to get one of the cam chain lube plugs with the tiny hole in it somewhere else in the motor, BTDT.
Are you by chance running a cast aluminum pan? If so, the threaded hole on each side of the rear main seal is open to the pan and needs to be sealed.
Are you by chance running a cast aluminum pan? If so, the threaded hole on each side of the rear main seal is open to the pan and needs to be sealed.
02-20-2006, 01:48 PM
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Re: Engine Break-in
I had an engine rebuilt once and the rear cam plug fell out after the engine was reinstalled. Oil leaked out about 2 quarts in a half hour. Lucky we stopped for gas and checked the oil. 
02-20-2006, 03:38 PM
#10
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Re: Engine Break-in
Just some food for thought also... check to see how far the cam plug was pushed in. I have seen some people put the plug in so far that the cam actually rubs a hole in the plug and leaks oil out everywhere. Just one more thing, make sure you didnt get a reverse rotation crank seal kit by accident. Have seen that as well. Oh yah, like everyone else said, also check those pipe plugs in the 2 oil galleys just above the cam plug. just my .02.
Good luck.
John S.
Good luck.
John S.
