Re: Do-it-yourself flush kit installs?
 

I just put the Perkos on my Formula when I did water pump impellers. Just had to pull the hoses up and cut them while they were off the pumps. Ran 3/4 hose to fittings on the flushers and to hose fittings on the inside of the engine compt. I can probably get pics this weekend.

Re: Do-it-yourself flush kit installs?
 

That would be great, thanks. I'm one of those visual kind of guys... :eek:

Re: Do-it-yourself flush kit installs?
 

here ya go, kinda hard to see in there.

Re: Do-it-yourself flush kit installs?
 

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I installed my flush kit and op-checked it immediately afterwards and observed it working perfectly.

One week later (this past weekend) i take ti to a poker run and upon first starting it up once in the water I start getting these double-beeps, and above 35oo rpm during the run i get a solid alarm until I came off plane with the double-beeps consistent all day as posted in my other post in the tech section.

The only common denominator for the two engines is the flush kit since it last ran great 3 weeks before, and just one week after it ran great (no alarms) on the lift. But several other folks have installed thses with no problems that i have heard of. Has anyone experienced maybe a water pressure sensor alrm or similar anomaly since installing theirs?

Attached is my setup using 5/8" non-collapsible reinforced PVC line.

Make sure the valves are fully closed and the fittings are 100% sealed. Any air leaks and the seawater pump will suck in air starving the motor of water. Was the alarm for water temp?

Just read your other post. No ideal what could be the problem as long as you have no air leaks. Might try separating the 2 systems. It sure appears like it should be fine with the 3 valves closed. (Unless the Y- adapter is not up to par.) Good thing is it easy to eliminate the valve setup for a quick check. I'd go that route 1st.

Well when sittingin the water there's no water that gets into the lines. The Y shutoff's I tested (by mouth) and found it to be air tight when in the off position, plus the cap is screwed on tight. No drips or leaks while in the water over three days, and water pressure on the gauges reads great/normal.

The only thing that makes sense to me (it's a boat I know) is as the water is passing hard past the t-fitting opening to the flush hose, it's causing "maybe" an aeration of the water throught the pump to the pressure sensor at the mouth of the exit hose maybe causing it to sense a faulty reading. But again other 496 owners have not had this anomaly, why me and the other guy?

Yeah i need to go thru a process of elimination methadolgy while waiting on a scantool read. I think I can make a temp cap-off of the t-fitting, or even try rotating it to be situated more downward vice pointing upwards or something.

Hey Reck
Im (Bajacleveland on Speedwake)
No I don't have the same motor.
I doubt it has anything to do with the T if your valve is fully closed.
Unless the plastic T is reducing water flow.
I would guess you might have killed the impeller.Did you forget to switch the vavle over at all?
Was it fine at any point running it out on the water(Not the hose)?

No overheating, cool risers indicating good waterflow thru exhaust (496's has a separate high temp alarm at the risers if water flow is restricted, and they will get very hot. That alarm is either on or off). I've also got water pressure gauges both of which read great pressure levels and indicate no different than before. Also solid block temps of 160 (496's are closed loop cooling, hence the different temp sensors).

Good drive oil, good engine oil and pressure, all flush valves closed & double checked throughout the day.

See my "Beep-beep" post in this forum.