Do-it-yourself flush kit installs?
#1
I've seen many posts with pics in the past and some were really good ideas as well as cheap and easy.
What are some good methods?
Where did you pick up your homemade parts?
What are the issues with placing a t-fitting in the raw water intake line of a 496HO? There's a funky piece/valve inline it looks like, probably associated with the air pressure water dump from the manifolds? Do you place the t-fitting behind that?
I've obviously got a Sunsation with a tight engine package. Any tricks to getting to the feed hose on the port engine?
Oh, got any picks of your homemade flush kits installed?
What are some good methods?
Where did you pick up your homemade parts?
What are the issues with placing a t-fitting in the raw water intake line of a 496HO? There's a funky piece/valve inline it looks like, probably associated with the air pressure water dump from the manifolds? Do you place the t-fitting behind that?
I've obviously got a Sunsation with a tight engine package. Any tricks to getting to the feed hose on the port engine?
Oh, got any picks of your homemade flush kits installed?
#2
on to port mtr easy way is to pull the mtr, short of that its a pain luckily im small so somtimes I can get under the mtr
as for home made no need really perko makes a great kit that even has a check valve in it and has every thing you need in it
as for home made no need really perko makes a great kit that even has a check valve in it and has every thing you need in it
#5
US1-how do you shut off water from the drive?
#6
I don't need to worry about the drive. No valves are used either. Just gotta make sure the cap is on tight so it does not suck air. When I turn on the water, (motors off) the water will go out the drive because the seawater pump is not turning and blocking that path. Then when the motors are started, with the tee being right at the pump inlet, the suction then pulls the water thru the pump, stopping all water flow out the drives. works like a charm, with absolutley no dry start up waiting for the pump to pull water from a set of muffs or worry about muffs that slip down. I do my flushing/winterizing on the trailer, so this works great for me. Actually, I have a tee that I screw into the garden hose adapter for winterizing. 1 end water supply, other end to 5 gallon bucket full of antifreeze. Run the motors until up to temp, shut the supply leg off, open the antifreeze. Instantantly sucks the antifreeze down. For someone wanting to flush thier motors while in the water, naturally a valve would then be needed between teh tee and the drive.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 04-13-2006 at 10:59 PM.
#8
Rick,
I don't like the Perko system as it allows a problem area for clogs and failure.
I made my own with no check valve and no shut off valves. I plugged a T into the raw water intake into the SW pump. This hose was a REAL PAIN IN THE ASS to remove, but pulling it completely out is the only way to do it right. My boat is at my house outside of Richmond now, so if you are in the area, feel free to take a look. I bought the snap in quick connect from Mercury (BAM Marine, OSO advertiser) and the T for the raw water hose and a 90* fitting from CP Performance. With not having a valve installed, as soon as you turn on the garden hose, it flushes the drive out quickly and as soon as you turn on the motor, it takes the water into the SW pump.
The only disadvantage I have is I can't flush the motors with fresh water if the boat is sitting in saltwater without getting in the water and putting tape of over the UWP and LWP on the drives.
I don't like the Perko system as it allows a problem area for clogs and failure.
I made my own with no check valve and no shut off valves. I plugged a T into the raw water intake into the SW pump. This hose was a REAL PAIN IN THE ASS to remove, but pulling it completely out is the only way to do it right. My boat is at my house outside of Richmond now, so if you are in the area, feel free to take a look. I bought the snap in quick connect from Mercury (BAM Marine, OSO advertiser) and the T for the raw water hose and a 90* fitting from CP Performance. With not having a valve installed, as soon as you turn on the garden hose, it flushes the drive out quickly and as soon as you turn on the motor, it takes the water into the SW pump.
The only disadvantage I have is I can't flush the motors with fresh water if the boat is sitting in saltwater without getting in the water and putting tape of over the UWP and LWP on the drives.
#9
Registered
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 145
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From: Tappahannock, VA
I have used the Perko kit on several applications. You can install fittings (like first pic of US1 Fountain), so that they are easy to acess when flushing. This is installed from the factory on many inboard boats. I would recommend supporting the "flusher valve" instead of just leaving it hang in-line. Rick, check with Bob Conway, I think that was the system that we installed on his boat at the dealership.
#10
Great ideas. Brian when you say all the out, do you mean disconnect the intake hose from the transom as well?
Starboard engine no problem. Port engine real tight. I suspect I have to pull the at least the riser to get a little more access to the hose to cut the inline location for a T fitting. It's all super simple looking, I guess my biggest hurdle is simply access to the intake hose to cut into it, or "add to it" maybe? What diameter hose is the intake?
Any better pics form anyone?
rackster I have seen Bob's, but he has a bit more wiggle room to maneuver than I in his 35 Executioner.
Starboard engine no problem. Port engine real tight. I suspect I have to pull the at least the riser to get a little more access to the hose to cut the inline location for a T fitting. It's all super simple looking, I guess my biggest hurdle is simply access to the intake hose to cut into it, or "add to it" maybe? What diameter hose is the intake?
Any better pics form anyone?
rackster I have seen Bob's, but he has a bit more wiggle room to maneuver than I in his 35 Executioner.




