Don't over look spark knock it can wipe out a rod bearing I would use a 140 tstat and a std oil pump and a new cooler. Make sure oil flow to the filter is correct maybe go up a jet size in that corner or to the secondaries what do the plugs look like fuel pressure bad line ect. You cant clean the parts to good or run it to cool as long as no moisture builds up in the oil I always run 40w or 20 50 syn oil.

I never blow same thing four...smiling thanks to the info her

The valve in heads looks very fine EX valve are gray/brown and top of piston black. Sparkplug more brown than gray. All seems close to similar condition.


Okay Guys, here is my konklusion based on your advice

-Totally clean block and then clean it again and then one more time
-New oil cooler 3X18" and earl´s sandwich oil thermostat
-New Oil hose and fittings with at least 1/2"id
-New crankshaft and bearings (eagle steel crank)
-New rods (3/8 )
-New lifters
-New Oil pump (Blueprinted)
-Castrol 20/50 and add some break in additiv from crane
-140* water thermostat
-add oil temperatur gauge to oil pan
-make sure piston freely move on wristpin

I still belive I can make it spin like a *****, otherwise next time it wil see the bottom of the ocean.

Thanks for your time

Figure about .001 to .0012 clearance on the wrist pin. They come stock between .0006 and .0008 from what Ive measured. Ive made this mistake before and #7 started knocking. The piston pin bore was galled and the pin showed color but it didnt get to the rod bearing.

Somebody correct me if that clearance is wrong. Thats what Im running now.

Talk to machine shop today, they want to make flooding wrist pin? They claim that it can be done just by tolerance and no bronceguide. Is that correct?

I had same problem twice. It was'nt until I put in a new crank the problem stopped. I personally think my crank had a slight bend where the rod connected. Even though test showed the crank to be straight. I never knew that the way they straighten out cranks is by banging the hell out of them

wern't we talking about eagle cranks some weeks ago about a main bearing/ thrust washer issue ...? and it was demonstrated conclusively that the eagle cranks lots of people had gotten had large radii that would interfere with the bearing edges ? sure as hell if that was the case here would do what he is seeing... just an observation but would sure make certain i had side clearence on those rods and they rattle based on what others have written about those cranks...

I'm quite sure by what you are experiencing with your bearing problem goes beyond this, but running a cooler water thermostat as some others have suggested may help a bit as I think 188* water is kinda warm and may cause your oil to become too warm. (???)

I have 160* water thermostats and my engines are running right around 175-185* or so. I do have extremely large oil coolers to compensate. However, with these water temps I have noticed that my oil temps run much warmer and rise much quicker and I am not too comfortable with that so, I am going to try installing cooler water thermostats and see how it responds.

Raylar has/makes a very good point. You just have to find the right guy/shop who's HONEST, and KNOWS what the hay they're doing with marine performance engines!!! I hope all goes well for you next time around.

fhb,
"Talk to machine shop today, they want to make flooding wrist pin" ... do you mean a "floating" pin ?? If so, I would not really recommend it without bushing the rod. GM tried it back in the early 70's and from what I have seen, the pins did not hold up very well. In my opinion, there really is not that great of an advantage to full floating pins unless you plan on disassembling the pistons regularly, such as in a race engine. If you are going to go through all that trouble, just buy a set of aftermarket rods that are already bushed.
Also, make sure that your machinist is checking the radius, size, taper and roundness of the new Eagle crankshafts.
Just my opinion,

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

Yes, floating pin You are right, I will tell them to make sure the piston move free on wrist pin and thats it ! I dont need new problem...