$6,000 for 5.7 engine work?
#11
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 368
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From: Jamesport, New York
6K is whacked I built up an 010 350 block up to a 383 with a Lunati Pro Mod rotating assy and Lunati pistons, Dart stage II heads, Lunati roller cam, Harland Sharp roller rockers and more all top shelf stuff for a tiny bit over 4K. The Alpha will hold some decent HP just follow the above tips. Another though you may want to look into is the GM crate engine the HT383, it is a bolt in with great torque at a reasonable price.
Phil
Phil
#13
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,074
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From: Waldorf, Md
Sleek,
I did a complete 350 marine this spring with new heads, all new internal parts (crank, rods, pistons etc), hydraulic roller cam, all new valve train, new intake manifold and a 2 year warranty for just about 4k. The only part that was not new was the engine block itself. 6k sounds a little steep unless it is including manifolds, installation etc. I think you can get a Mercruiser reman for around $3500, thats another option.
I did a complete 350 marine this spring with new heads, all new internal parts (crank, rods, pistons etc), hydraulic roller cam, all new valve train, new intake manifold and a 2 year warranty for just about 4k. The only part that was not new was the engine block itself. 6k sounds a little steep unless it is including manifolds, installation etc. I think you can get a Mercruiser reman for around $3500, thats another option.
#14
Re: $6,000 for 5.7 engine work?
Needed to refresh my 350 mags this year.Bought 2 mercury reman long blocks (2 yr warranty), 3000 ea , swapped all my access, intakes , manifolds ( new last year or I would have new too) , stripped , re painted , done . 6 g plus gaskets plugs filters caps and rotors, maybe 200. Paid a reputable mechanic like 1600 to take them out , re install , install my new transoms and drives , like another 7g in parts (insurance bought them for me!) . 6g is way too much for what he wants to do. If the motor is that wasted ditch it. You will be much happier in the long run. Total I put like 8 g out of pocket and everything is new and under warranty!
#15
I'll try and keep this short. I pulled the plugs and starboard side from the front, the 1st and third cylinders had water drain out of them. Port side, the 2nd cylinder had water drain out of it. All others no water noticed. I drained the oil and aprox. the first quart was all water. Changed oil/filter, water seperator, new plugs, new battery, new exhaust elbow gaskets. Ran the boat 35-40 minutes on the hose seemed fine. Went to start it a week later for a shake down cruise... would not start.
Enter mechanic, used him years ago heard and seemed reputable. He told me he could waste time checking cylinder pressures. But the fact that there was water in the oil meant the cylinders are rusted and to do it right would require machining, head work if heads are cracked, or intake manifold work. He told me about the new engine option for $3k +/- but then I still have to deal with heads if cracked or intake if cracked.
I'm not a great mechanic, just the basics. Tearing an engine apart would be beyond me. $6k is turn key. Now what do u think? Help me compare apples to apples.
Thanks
Enter mechanic, used him years ago heard and seemed reputable. He told me he could waste time checking cylinder pressures. But the fact that there was water in the oil meant the cylinders are rusted and to do it right would require machining, head work if heads are cracked, or intake manifold work. He told me about the new engine option for $3k +/- but then I still have to deal with heads if cracked or intake if cracked.
I'm not a great mechanic, just the basics. Tearing an engine apart would be beyond me. $6k is turn key. Now what do u think? Help me compare apples to apples.
Thanks
#16
Originally Posted by BillK
Sleek,
I did a complete 350 marine this spring with new heads, all new internal parts (crank, rods, pistons etc), hydraulic roller cam, all new valve train, new intake manifold and a 2 year warranty for just about 4k. The only part that was not new was the engine block itself. 6k sounds a little steep unless it is including manifolds, installation etc. I think you can get a Mercruiser reman for around $3500, thats another option.
I did a complete 350 marine this spring with new heads, all new internal parts (crank, rods, pistons etc), hydraulic roller cam, all new valve train, new intake manifold and a 2 year warranty for just about 4k. The only part that was not new was the engine block itself. 6k sounds a little steep unless it is including manifolds, installation etc. I think you can get a Mercruiser reman for around $3500, thats another option.
BILLK
4k sounds good, but you said the block was not new. Was it machined? Because of rust in my cylinders (supposedly) I need to machine the block (I think he said that was $2,500) or get a new one.
#17
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 368
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From: Jamesport, New York
The total for boring .030, decking, line boring and bolting the bottom together by a very trusted machinest I have known for a long time ran $750. I feel that is pretty fair and in the ball park with a lot of shops.
#19
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 314
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From: Ankeny IA
Originally Posted by sleek1
I'll try and keep this short. I pulled the plugs and starboard side from the front, the 1st and third cylinders had water drain out of them. Port side, the 2nd cylinder had water drain out of it. All others no water noticed. I drained the oil and aprox. the first quart was all water. Changed oil/filter, water seperator, new plugs, new battery, new exhaust elbow gaskets. Ran the boat 35-40 minutes on the hose seemed fine. Went to start it a week later for a shake down cruise... would not start.
Enter mechanic, used him years ago heard and seemed reputable. He told me he could waste time checking cylinder pressures. But the fact that there was water in the oil meant the cylinders are rusted and to do it right would require machining, head work if heads are cracked, or intake manifold work. He told me about the new engine option for $3k +/- but then I still have to deal with heads if cracked or intake if cracked.
I'm not a great mechanic, just the basics. Tearing an engine apart would be beyond me. $6k is turn key. Now what do u think? Help me compare apples to apples.
Thanks
Enter mechanic, used him years ago heard and seemed reputable. He told me he could waste time checking cylinder pressures. But the fact that there was water in the oil meant the cylinders are rusted and to do it right would require machining, head work if heads are cracked, or intake manifold work. He told me about the new engine option for $3k +/- but then I still have to deal with heads if cracked or intake if cracked.
I'm not a great mechanic, just the basics. Tearing an engine apart would be beyond me. $6k is turn key. Now what do u think? Help me compare apples to apples.
Thanks
The motors that are 3500 or 3600 shown here are complete, as in they have heads, carb, ignition, etc. All that is needed off the original motor is acessories (alternator, power steering pump, etc) and exhaust manifolds.
It may end up being right around 6K installed, but I would go that route instead of rebuilding, unless you want to do upgrades like a stroker. Everything new, warranty, etc. A lot more bang for your buck.
Oh, and my cylinders got wet and were NOT rusty. I know because I pulled the heads after the 2nd time. Also, in my opinion, if there is a little surface rust in them it won't hurt anything, it will wear off after running it. If water has set in there for extended amount of time, (like weeks) then it is a different story.
#20
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 368
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From: Jamesport, New York
In your initial post you mentioned better cam & rockers, tells me you are looking for a little more go. Put you external accesories on and new exhaust on the engine in the link below and go and have a good boating season
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...1&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...1&autoview=sku


