Wondering if I should use a stud girdle or not? Engine builder says I don't need one. I'm having a new 540 put together with Crane Hydraulic Roller cam (~630 lift) with upgraded Dart Iron Eagle heads and Crane Gold roller rockers. RPM will be 5500 at WOT. Do I need to use a stud girdle? If so, what brand do you recommend? I see Crane, Comp and others that are in the $250-300+ range and others (off brand) that are in the $170 range. Are you just paying for the name or are the off brand just as good? Thanks

Uh......No

Listen to your engine builder

I'm not sure i've ever heard of a stud girdle on a HR cam motor let alone turning only 5500 rpm.

Thanks jdnca1. Had a couple of guys tell me I should be using one, so just wanted to set my mind at ease.

How much spring pressure are you running? I'm running the very max spring pressure a hyd roller can take and turning it up to 5900, I was going to add one because I have had small valve train issues (I tightened comp rocker nuts on the tight side and they were incorrectly heat treated,cracked from stress and backed off) but instead I'm converting over to t/d shaft rokers,Smitty

For peace of mind buy the ARP 220,000 psi rocker studs instead of the run of the mill ones,they should flex less,Smitty

I have a 615 ci BBC with a HD roller @632 lift. The motor does have crane stud girdles but the engine was originaly built with a solid roller cam. I'm assuming that when the cam was changed, the stud girdles were kept. It would of course make the valve train more stable but I would feel fine without them. I kept them because they were already paid for and there. I would say that you dont need them, but if you wanted to overbuild it, it wouldn't hurt anything either (except your wallet)

but instead I'm converting over to t/d shaft rokers,Smitty


Smitty,
I am with you. RMbuilder is designing me a new solid roller for next season. I will also be switching to T&D Shaft rockers. Keep me posted on your results.

Vinny