I really don't how to answer the the oil was still darker than a milkshake after maybe 15 hours maybe a little more but happened quickly (over weekend) I check oil every weekend. I usually use 2 to 4 hours weekend. 95% of use is 2800 to 3000 rpm honestly! I did 100 mile poker run prior week ran it but didn't abuse it 4000 + rpm ocasional 5000 boat ran the best it every has. went out short easy ride following week the the water showed up

Has the boat ran successfully without having oil in the water with the current exhaust setup in normal operating conditions? If yes, and this problem is just starting, it's probalby not reversion. If this problem has been present from the day you installed the exhaust, it could be a reversion problem.

boat has history of problems motors stock with mercruiser manifolds with no baffles ,flappers or any thing I know stupid didn't know any better water in cylinder blown head gasket. repaired added dana flows motor left stock still had problems with moisture thought it was backwash. rebuilt to present specs with external flapers this is where I'm at also tried stealth flapper by eddie blew them out in no time would different risers cure reversion or is the cam ? thanks for your help and time

224, 230 on a 114LSA and installed 4 degrees advanced and with relatively short seat duration shouldn't revert with any exhaust . I said 'shouldn't ' , not 'won't '.

Are your tailpipes low ? In the water ? Waves splash into them ? Following seas come over them ? Did this moisture show before or after baffles blew out ?

If there is water in the lower manifold section when removed, either the engine is 'sucking water' , the exhaust is leaking internally, or water goes up thru tailpipe and then into the motor on it's own.

I would have to give a 98% chance it's not engine reversion.

More likely, intrusion.

The boat sits low in the back tailpipes are about 8" above water surface I put internals on at the same time I did external but they didn't last 20 minutes so I thought the external was enough but I did have the problem before & after I've been extremely careful about backwash thinking this was what caused it all along. I don't slow down abrubtly anchor time is in coves. the boat stays on a lift the lake can be rough sometimes (fort loudon tennessee river) there was water in bottom of manifolds I don't see how it curl back into the pipes especially at the angle it is. I have thru hull picks and it runs ALOT of pressure didn't know if that could tie to the problem. manifolds look to have been burning clean. I don't where to stat elminating causes

This may sound stupid but could I be getting the water by raising or starting the boat level on the lift instaead of natural angle

Reversion shows up at idle. Were you idling a lot when the milkshake happened. Make sure your idle is set at 800 rpm. above that is hard on the drives when shifting, below that promotes reversion.

Yes I was idleing alot intentionally because I just put on a new raw water pump and fuel pump. It had been dying after extended idleing seems to have fixed, I hope! Not really enough time to tell for sure. Idle is set at 800 to 850

I'm getting that you ran it pretty hard and had no prob. Then after an easy weekend you saw the moisture. Perhaps it is an oil temp. prob. and not water temp. If you run easy and the oil temp. doesn't get to over 212* F., water (being one of the products of combustion) will accumulate. Maybe an oil temp gage is in order before you start tearing things apart. --- Jer

Patriyacht Has A Good Point. Mine Started Dropping Cylinder When The Idle Was Below 800 For Some Time When I Had Eddie Marine Manifolds. Raising The Idle To 1000 Was A Temporary Fix For Me Until I Changed To Dry Risers. Raising The Idle Mite Tell You Whats Going On.