Are you sure you replaced the lifters back in there bore properly????? That is exactly what happened during my first build,the builder didnt know there were two ways to install the lifter!!!Hence all the metal in my engines thay wiped them out.


Nordic95

I'm not sure of anything... I didn't do the work myself. What do you mean 2 different ways?

The right way and the wrong way These are pictures of my cams after 14 hour of run time.The lifter has a tie bar that connects the two lifter together,the tie bar has an UP arrow on it.But you can take the lifters and spin them 180 degrees and then flip the whole assembly 180 degrees and they will fit right back into the block but with the arrow down.By doing this the wheels now run on a 45 degree angle to the cam and cause the damage by the side of the wheel cutting into the lobe of the cam,see the pictures.

When It happened to me I did not here anything different The motor just seem to run rough at idle and had low oil pressure about 10 psi. When the engine builder took it apart he said It was a detonation. To me it looked like the tie bar from the roller lifter just broke and the lifter started to sipn in the block taking out the cam. Both motors were put together the same way and only one broke. It seems to me like a manuf. defect of the lifter!

Hey Jim,

Definitely bearing clearance issues. Oil pressure is real low for running conditions. Just some advice, Buy new oil coolers. I don't know what happen to your original motors, but I have cleaned an oil cooler for an hour and still got metallic crap running out. Then I cut the oil cooler in half and I wasn't even close to getting all the metal out. See what your builder is using for rod clearances, usually .0025 is good for a stock motor and .003 for a higher performance motor. Check around w/ other builders and see what they recommend. Good luck and sorry to hear it.

My engine had low oil pressure when warm (502 EFI).
Complete tear down showed all bearings totally waisted and and one spun main bearing. Hard to see if the bearing tolerances was right, engine has been rebuild by former owner. However I discovered from reading here at OSO that it?s crucial to have the right oil bypass valve in the block.
Mine had the wrong one, wrong for remote filter and cooler.

I must be parking my boat too close to that Blue A/T cause I'm having his kinda luck. Thanks Don. I assumed most of this. Looks like both motors will be pulled out and tore down again. I'll have to decide when and where this is going to be done. Might just look to boost the power a wee bit while they're out.

Well... we cut open the 2 new filters and still had some flakes but nothing compared to the first ones. Starboard motor next to nothing... Port, little more. I'll be taking the filters to my assembler on Monday to see what he says... I'll post pics next week. Damn this sux! 2 years boatless and now after 2 months...boatless again.

man, go to NAPA and order an oil analsis kit, get two of them, they are $14 each. Follow instructions, mail to the physcial address, 48 hours later you have a good report, take that PLUS the oil filter to engine builder, this will tell you AMAZING things. Best $28 you can spend in this process.

Dean;

I think I'm going to make this a std. in my maintenance going forward, however don't you think it's a little late for oil analysis now? I know the motors have to be torn down. What else can the report show other than there's metal in my oil? Just in a more detailed way?