Pics Of Oil Cooler Rigging
 

Can Any Body Explain Hoew There Oil Coolers Are Set Up And How They Are Ran<plumbed> Etc

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This is how I rigged mine up..

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How Soon After The Wate Enters The Boat Does It Go Thriugh Your Cooler....first Thing Or After The Sea Strainer

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After the strainer..

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Make sure you have the direction of the oil flowing exactly as described in the diagram. A fram hp-6 filter has a bypass built into the filter. When the oil is moving faster than the matrix can filter it, it flows through the bypass, which is most of the time. If the filter is plumbed backward the oil will be restricted to the engine and the resulting concequences will be catastrophic. ..... * BOOM *...... :eek:

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Now we can start the battle of filter first or cooler first.

My reasoning is filter first. Hotter oil goes thru filter easier, and filter oil goes thru cooler in case motor melts down the cooler will only have clean oil going thru it.

If motor is gen VI then also make sure you have the 30 psi bypass in the block instead of the 10-11 psi one

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Very nice job!

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I agree.... filter first... cool later. But if the motor melts down you are still going to get debris in the cooler because of the bypass. The only time all the oil passes through the filter is when the oil is hot and the engine is just idling. Any more flow and the oil goes through the bypass. But the thinner and warmer the easier it is filtered. Also... mount the filter and cooler as close to the engine as possible. The longer the lines the more resistance you have forcing the oil through the components and back to the engine. Keep the lines as big in diameter and as short in length as possible.

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We usually plumb filter first as well for the reasone you guys already mentioned.. It's really not much more difficult to do so either.. However if you screw something up bad enough while running, you still will have stuff get into the cooler.. Jamie / Lakeside

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i still need to kind of see the route of the water the oiling i now know, thanks for that guys but pics or routing chart would help a lot winter bilge clean up projects

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Here is how the water should be routed. Pick-up at the transom to the sea strainer. Sea strainer to the marine pump. Marine pump to the oil cooler. Oil cooler to the engine. Engine to the exhaust. Exhaust to outside of the hull. There will also probably be some manifold drains and possibly a pressure release valve. Depends on your set-up.

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thanks reed that is the way i had it but it goes to the trans cooler first then to the oil

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That's fine.

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I made mine all self contained to the motor .It pulls out all still conected and goes on the dyno the same way :drink:

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Strip boy.... you a muh-fuggin genius!.... :D

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Naw I am just some ole dumb boy from Mississippi :p

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mine are similar to yours, minus all the fancy chrome........ i guess i overthink things...........I guess i just like to be totalyy sure....


thanks strip good to see your posts again

kind of weird i never met ya but you always chime in to help................

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Nah.Its good to think thru things , that way you dont make mistakes or youll never learn anything.If I dont know or arnt sure I ll ask anybody,burn up that free long distance :evilb: I aint scared to ask for help :D

Even with the plated cooler it maintains no more than 225-230 oil temp even at 9 lbs of boost.But the bottom end is REAL loose :eek:

Rob

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is that pan temp or oil filter temp

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oil filter.it has a Keith Eikert[sp] oil thermostat on it.

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I like chrome, but I have read somewhere that chrome on a oil cooler reduces it`s efficiency. Anybody else heard or read about that?

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Hardin marine claims 30% loss for chromed cooler, I have my doubts that it is that much.


I am a firm believer in filter after cooler.

the typical cooler only reduces oil temp 25* in one pass and my Teague dual pass offshore cooler only reduces 50*, so I don't think that is enough to affect oil filtration.

If you have one piece of weld spatter come out of a new or old cooler, you will have a way bigger problem.

BTW Teague also filters after the cooler.

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Not all the oil passes through the filter matrix... If you have any.... ANY... debris in the oiling system... your bearings are going to suffer. If you have a Fram HP-6 or HP-1 filter there is a bypass built into the filter. Most of the time the bypass is open to allow oil to flow to the engine. Only when the oil is hot and the flow is minimal will all the oil flow through the matrix. Hot oil is easier to filter than cold. Filter first, cool later. And I don't care WHO does it the other way.

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We got them real smarty boys out here in Californy.... They like to do thangs real differnt. Like plumb oiling systems bass-akwards and cool the oil until it's no hotter n' 70 degrees... "cuz the colder the better!" Then yur engine go boom!.......... Who could that be?..... :cool:

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It was my understanding that the filter bypass, built into some filters does not bypass until pressures of around 100psi are seen. On the other hand, the differential bypass valve built into the block or filter pad adapter (15 or 30psi) can open much earlier, which is why I plugged mine.

I know we are never going to agree on this subject :drink:

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The bypass built into the filter will open with as little as 10 lbs differential in pressure. You can have 100 lbs of pressure in the system but if you have only 90 lbs on the other side of the filter matrix the bypass will begin to open. It isn't the total pressure, but the differential in pressure between the unfiltered side and the filtered side of the matrix. Trust me on this one.... most of the oil passes through the bypass. If the filter doesn't have a bypass, then the engine's oiling system has to have one. If not... not enough oil will get to the bearings.If there wasn't a bypass, the oil that can't pass through the filter will return to the pan through the pressure relief valve. I've rebuilt racing engines and stock engines from all eras of automotive history, both foreign and domestic. I've built supercharged marine engines, and one of the few things they all have in common if they have a fully pressurized oiling system is an oil bypass for the filter. ( If there is a filter.)

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I am sure it does. Like black dissipates heat better.Also a ruff case piece has more surface area that will cool better.I am not building too much heat so it not a prob.

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As long as the chrome is on the outside only, there shouldn't be any difference. The heat exchange happens on the inside. What little heat that radiates on the outside isn't going to make any difference. Even if the chrome is on the inside you probably won't see any difference.

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I stand corrected on the filters bypass operation.

However, the consensus on Bobstheoilguy seems to be that they rarely open, particularly with synthetic oil and a filter that is changed regularly. My point is that you are placing your faith in the manufacturer of heat exchangers to provide you with a perfectly clean oil cooler. I have been in the heat exchanger business for 20+ years and know that doesn't happen.

The small amount of oil that may bypass a clean filter is far less likely to contain large enough particles to damage your engine than you may get from running filtered oil through a new or reused oil cooler that may be contaminated. There is no foolproof way to clean a new or old heat exchanger due to their construction.

Running the longer filters as articfriend does will further reduce the chances of bypass.

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So in this pick I tought this was a anti drain back valve or is it a bypass?

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the spring and plunger thingy is the bypass valve. Napa filters by Wix have been criticised for not having a gasket on the bypass valve seat. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...udy.html#n1515

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Bypass.... anti drain back valves are a rubber flap that goes up against the ring of holes around the outside area where the filter screws on. Filters don't need a drain back valve if they are mounted with the threaded portion topside. The oil flows from the outside of the filter to the inside.

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There is always a concern about getting all the contaminants out of a remote oil cooler. You can have them sonically blasted. I cleaned mine by soaking them in stoddard solvent, draining them, refilling them with a caustic solution then finally blasting them out with ultra hot water and air. They were the large convoluted pass type oil filter. I never had any problems with them after that. Trust me... I don't care what Bobtheoilguy says, those bypass valves are open a lot more than you would think.They spend more time open than they do closed. That is why Napa/wix didn't bother putting a gasket on the valve. The idiot that plumbed my port engine plumbed the remote oil filter backwards and the bypass valve was pushed backward. When the engine came off idle the oil pressure gauge would peg and yet the lifters would clatter from lack of oil. He insisted there wasn't a problem and when the motor scattered in a spectacular fashion after a few minutes , he ( the builder ) claimed it was MY fault. When I disassembled the engine and inspected the way the filter was plumbed, he told me it didn't make any difference how the filter was plumbed... Oh yeah? I won't bother to post the pictures here, but the crank looked like someone had taken a cutting torch to the bearing journals. All because the bypass wouldn't open. Now you draw your own conclusions. I've seen what happens when there isn't a filter bypass. If you choose to close yours off.... Good luck.

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Ok I called Wix they said the 1222R bypass vale is a 18-22lbs that ,61 micron and flows 28-30GPM.Itwill acutually drain back,.being mine is mounted upside down.

Also asked about the 1060R it has just the anti drian back and do NOT have the bypass ,also has the 61 micron,

They discontuned the 1061R that had the bypass valve.

With the HP6 and 1222R is the only fitler in the size.no other choises

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So the only reason I should be consearned with the oil cooler that I have been running for 5 years is IF I puke and contaimaniated the oil cooler???????

Oilcooler
The last 3 winters I just washed them out with gas then break cleaner ,blow them out with air let drip dry if anything left in it.

Any better sugestions?????

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I found that the biggest drop in my oil temperature occured when I added a #8 dump just past the oil cooler, so now i have a lot of water flow thru the cooler. Before I couldn't achieve a balance between the oil cooler water flow and water flow to the motor. I used a 30mm water temp hose adapter from Greddy and then drilled to pipe thread pad for a bigger pipe to AN fitting. I did the same thing on the other side of the motor for the intercooler.

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That is what I would do with the coolers, Rob. They don't really get fugged up unless you have a serious engine issue like a melt-down. About oil filter flow: the more oil they flow per minute the less they filter, given the filter is the same size. HP-6 filters have a built in bypass. If the filter doesn't have a bypass then the system needs to have one somewhere.

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so far so good this season at 9lbs.fixing to tear down and look :eek:

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I love how you Southerners are "fixin" to do something. Makes me believe you guys are in a constant state of repair... :evilb:

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Allways . :drink: