I've got a 2000 24' Stepbottom Superboat with a 454 Mag mpi that has a set of CMI elbow top headers. With that small of a boat, I don't think I am puttin gtoo much stress on my drive. Unfortunately boating at Lake of the Ozarks and Grand Lake, you can't help but get air. That could be the downfall of it in the future. I don't have any problems with it at all right now though. (fingers crossed)

Thanks for the info. The drive does indeed say "PERFORMANCE" on it. I'm not sure if it means anything or is the drive you are talking about. As I said, right now I'm not looking to add a bunch of power, so I think I'm ok. It is a 24 Superboat, so it isn't a real heavy boat by any means. I'm not putting much stress on the drive in it's current configuration. As I said in my orevious post, my biggest concern is airing it out. Driving at LOTO in a small boat, you can't help but get air due to the cruiser wakes!

Performance meant that it had a low water pickup. the gears are standard.

Well fellas I just went straight to te source Merc. Spoke to Rocky he said that the Bravo Performance drive starting w/ser#OL is a heaver drive from the gears to casting and at gimbal area(its nothing like a standard Bravo) . Also the lower pickups was a option. Could be ordered either way depending on app.

I appoligize Creeper.. I was refering to the internals not the case itself. I have noticed differences in castings, but never have noticed a beefier case. Guess I need to be more attentive in that area. I do see some thinner areas in the very old cases when installing steel towers, but I was under the impression that the outside case was dimensionally the same. I normally dont recommend upgrading (for big power) the very old cases. I generally use a new style case, but then again, I am running a 95 case with steel tower and XR gears on my 28' Check, but not that much power, I may be making 700hp.
So I stand corrected, thank you!

Jayhawk,
With your combination, you shouldnt have a problem. If you are good on the throttle so you can enter the water with same torque as you exit, it should be fine. If you see the prop shaft splines twisting, you will know you need more practice on the throttle. Of course all of this is dependant on the condition and setup of the drive itself. If you try hard enough, you can break anything.
Typically the Bravo with thin floor gears will break a floor in the gear first, if enough power is available. But you can twist vertical and propshafts with the air game as you describe. Just work on your exit and reentry and you should be fine. Keep an eye out for metal on the magnet and change the oil often, add a drive shower to keep it cool..

Dick

Also without getting into it indepth, I asked him in exact words is it like an X drive and he said yes. And now I really don't know much about the X drives so.

As far as launch/re-entry, I think I do ok on the sticks. I spent many years racing PWC and in that time I did alot of wave jumping. With that, I learned by feel on when to close and open the throttle. So far, it seems like I'm doing ok. Afterall, this is just a bigger jet ski is all!

Hi .. That Was Very Informative Everyone. I Have A 1990 242ls 454 With A Performance Drive Also . Iv'e Been Told That It Has A Release, In Case You Hit An Object !! Then Returns Back To Its Same Trim ??? I Think On The Side Of The Trim Rams It Says [ Dp Or Hp ] I Cant Remember, It's Put Away For Winter

MY DRIVE SN# [ O L 435790 1.50R ] WITH A MIRAGE 21P PROP ... MAYBE SOMEONE CAN TELL ME WHAT SET UP I HAVE ? THANKS

Gadgets, you are correct. Same casting, same thin floor, but the diesel gears were double shot peened. Only difference between the diesel & "HP" upper is the decal. The HP lower has the old style vertical shaft, but is low water pickup.

Anybody who want's to can compare parts here:
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/selec...+++1996%2D1998