The heads are the Dart Iron Eagles, Intk: 308cc / Cham.: 119cc / Int/Exh: 2.25/1.88. You are correct I am not running a solid roller. As for the carb. One of my carbs was rebuilt but doesn't respond well. Was told that a replacement was probably necessary at some point, so i was planning on swapping them both out. If I only need/should replace one then that's all I'll do. As for the CAM, I went with the 731 (Hardened, copper). because i was talked out of the 741. Was told too much risk for reversion. With only 20 hours on them, I'm sure I could find a buyer.
I don't have a ton to spend, (maybe $7000-10000) for both and I really don't want to move above pump gas. I'd just like to see mid to upper 70's, with rock solid realibility.

Why do you need new cam bearings??????? and how do you know the cams are not damaged as well?????? Used cams are not an easy sale. Not worth the risk to most people.

You could run a pair of 250 SC's at low boost(4#) on pump fuel and still be very reliable. Talk to Nickerson about your carbs either way you go. They can be flowed for more CFM's and rebuilt right. Probably have to go with Dominators if you go the SC route.

While we don't know for sure we are pretty certain that the cam bearings are shot. Started to get metal flakes in the oil and pressure was dropping. Motors just were dropped off today for the initial teardown. Never got to any copper in the oil so i hope we caught it in time. Only 20 hours since the last rebuild and most of that was break in time.

Not really thinking about supercharging. I just want to be able to push about 600-700HP with realiable motors. Start & Go. I spent most of this year laying in the damn engine compartment instead of enjoying it with my family.

Since you are rebuilding already, the only items that are going to increase your cost are a new crank, longer rods and clearencing the block. If you are on a strict budget, Eagle stuff works well but needs to be checked carefully. The 731 cam is too small for this build.It's smaller than a 500 EFI cam. A 741 would be the minimum cam I would use. If you don't mind a lumpy exhaust a 651 would be best and make a lot of power. Both of these will probably revert with a stock exhaust. If you have Gil or CMI exhaust, a set of dry tailpipes would take care of that problem.

I just reread 20 hrs since last rebuild. Don't go back to the same guy unless he's doing it for free. It's probably more than just the cam bearings if you have flakes in the oil. No reason a 500 or 540 can't be reliable if the guy putting it together does a good job.

I agree.

He's doing it at no cost and he doesn't care if I replace components or not. He is a full machine shop so he can work the block if need be. I'd just pay for that, but I'm not sure I want him doing the work since we had troubles last time.

sounds like a job for JC Perf !!!

If there's anyone serious about helping out on this, let me know. We can get you these motors. I just want the motors broke in on a dyno so i don't have to deal with this crap again.

You'll hear a TON of different options and opinions on here---many of them good. At least you have some good aftermarket heads---JimV can really do a good number on some porting for you without having them fully ported---just another option. I would stick with a hydraulic roller cam/lifters as well----set it and forget it!

Here's some added stuff that should be mentioned. Supercharging vs. stroking---it can be difficult to decide what you want to do with all the options that are available. Superchargers = more wear/tear and maintenace. There's reliabillity in cubic inches and there is great power in supercharging. It comes down to what YOU are willing to spend and sacrifice.

Either way you go, power upgrades usually require a domino effect with components and it could cost you more than what you were originally planning and if you try to "cheap out" too much by cutting too many corners without doing the project the right way the first time then you will ultimately loose. With a budget of only $7,000-$10,000, you will spend roughly half of that with 4.25" cranks, pistons/pins, and 6.385" rods. Cams, lifters, rings, bearings, gaskets, etc, are all extra on top of that. Then you have the labor of all the machine work, and professional assembly, and even head porting, and dynoing. It can all add up quick!

Do yourself a favor and take your engines to someone who KNOWS what the heck they're doing with the budget you have---someone who has an awesome reputation/track record with marine engines and knows what it takes to make them survive. Someone in your area if you can.

I don't know how much you really know---just trying to give you some awareness. Do lots of research and watch out for the wolves in sheep's clothing!