It's hard to say with the picture, but it was either trickling over the ledge that's just under the driveshaft, or it was coming from the passage under that ledge. At this point all I remember is seeing two Torx-head bolts right where I saw the leak. And since I see that a new block-off plate package comes with 4 new torx bolts, I make that connection.

oldandtired and bigjim make very valid points.
My remarks are based on you being certain that this is where the leak is coming from. From my own experience what looks certain when everything is in place turns out to be different when you get everything apart because there's about 5 different locations that could be leaking in that area.

I am NOT trying to make light of a leak , certainly when the hole that it is coming in is constantly below the waterline .
There is only one way to fix a boat and that's the RIGHT way. Cost be damned because there's no such thing as a cheap way to fix a boat. I have heard one knowledgeable guy refer to fixing this problem using spray foam to fill in the exhaust tube on the outside of the trans plate.
The only proper way is to get the engines out for full and easy access.
It looks like you're in a salt water application like me , and a some years back I had to remove the Y pipe on my boat. The corrosion had done such a number on the bolts that it would have been impossible to do the job without the engine being completely out of the boat.
As to being able to reach in and seal the exterior of the exhaust tube .... hell , some of the places that I've managed to twist myself into and manipulate fingers over the years has left me near permanently disabled ... but I DID get to the spots needed

Are we talking boats or women here?

But I hear you mad, I didn't put this in the original post but my timeframe for repowering is probably the next 30-45 days. So it won't be this way for long, IF I can't fix it from the outside, IF it's actually the block off plate. But before I go crazy pulling motors & drives, I think it's worth it to a) check the shaft bellows and b) try to see if I can seal the exhaust passage from the outside. Since it's leaking identically on both sides, I'll try it on one side, float it, and see what happens. Heck, I might just shove a hose in there and see if that makes it leak?
Thanks everyone for chiming in; i'll let you know what happens.

[QUOTE=handfulz28;1990260]Are we talking boats or women here?


Regrettably , inanimate objects only


That's a good idea to try one side only ....

Do keep us informed .

Steve

If I'm not mistaken the block off plate upgrade was in the late 90's early 00's. I would pull the drive & once thats done you'll know if the bellows has a leak. Also you have the 2 anode studs on the bottom which are sealed by an "O" ring. They are prone to disolve. Between the anode studs and your block off plate I'd out my $ on that.

A fix that I originally though temporary is to clean the hole zinc chromate it then tape it about 2/3's the way up. Then mix a coffee cup full of foam pour it in hold a piece of cardboard over it just long enough for the foam to kick, once kicked the cardboard and tape will be sticking out a few inches trim it off and shoot some black on it. I did this as a temp years back, it worked so well I have done it on two others since. The beauty is you can get away without pulling the drive.

Phil

Hey MOP,

That is truly down and dirty, but I like it. I don't think that I would have ever thought of it. As a slight improvement to the concept. You could use an expanding elastomeric foam and have an even better temp fix.

Rene

MOP, oldandtired,
I'n not familiar with zinc chromate, and only marginally aware of different types of foam (share a brand name, place to buy?). Please share more detail so i can consider this method.

Michael, you need to get a good look in there and find out exactly where the water is coming from. If it is just below the driveshaft coming overthe ledge then it is the bellows seal and you can fix it outside the boat with only the drive removed. If it is the exhaust plate you could go to Home Depot and get the appropriate size rubber pipe cap and clamp it over the outside where the exhaust boot would have gone, no more leaks. But you need to see where it is, maybe getting a long reach mirror at the auto parts store and a flashlight will help.

Alot of good input here...but if your going to fix this do it the correct way. Is it really worth taking a short cut below the water line ?