I have just completed the Ace conversion. I had to add an adapter plate due to the angle of my transom so that caused some issues, but without that it is a very complete, well engineered kit. The quality of the product is unbelievable.

There is a thread in the Pantera section "Conversion in progress" with pictures and details.

If I can help you or provide any information, do not hesitate to email me: [email protected]

Kirk

3 mph doesn't seem too high of price for the increased reliability.

In staggered configurations, does the tranny attach to the forward engine's bellhousing or in the stand off box at the end of the driveshaft?

Good question

Another would be how much does this weigh compared to a #6 , it's box and tranny? I would assume much less. Wouldn't transoms have to be beefed up to convert to the 6?

On a staggered application, the trans is located on the bellhousing and fitted with a flange tailstock to accomodate a drive shaft. The transom assy is fitted with a carrier bearing for the drive shaft flange. Also, on the forward mounted motor, the transom cut-out needs no modification at all, there is plenty of room for the drive shaft to pass through the Bravo cut-out.
Staggered installations are very simple as the forward mounted motor is already mounted fore and aft and is fitted with a bellhousing that can accept a transmission. As mentioned above, no modifications to the transom other than bolting on our stand-off box.
To answer your questions concerning weight, the Konrad Ace system is about 150 lbs heavier than a Bravo. (trans adds 100 lbs)

Feel free to call anytime to discuss further,

Kurt 715-410-0735
[email protected]

Just like Kurt said. A little slower but NO failures. Mine is the 2005 38' that he is talking about.Just have to work on the props some more.

This is how my merc driveshaft connects to my bellhousing and mounting plate. It is a unmodified ITS tailstock. Would your tranny just mount directly to this?

Yes, trans will bolt right up to your bellhousing. The drive shaft will need to be shortened. Just wondering why you have the rear motor plate between the carrier and bell? Is this just a temp mock up?

Kurt

Because in order to go between the bell and block would have required a too much material removal on the plate to clear the flywheel gear or a switch to steel (much thinner) instead of .500" aluminum. Everything is doweled, helicoiled and connected with ARP bolts. Although I have not run this exact set up before, I have run the mounting plate at the rear of the bell on two non staggered engines with no problems.

This picture was taken during mock up. I also had a major space issue finding the room to mount oil coolers and large heat exchangers for closed cooling. I though with staggered engines I was going to have tons of room to work with but in reality the stringer space was gobbled up very quickly with shifters, strainers, battery mounts, power steering coolers and prelubers etc. I don't want one extra inch of hose so getting the layout just right for all this to fit neatly would have clashed significantly with the plate being moved forward 5 inches.

The reason I am asking so many questions is because I am not confident my Merc ITS Sportmasters will hold up and I need to get prepared for what I may need to do about that.

For many many reasons, I would have gone side by sides if ordering the boat tomorrow. For one, Outdrive options would have included trannies in the bilge and Arneson drives. Both fo those options are off the table here.

I understand, space is limited. Are you going to run a custom coupler (deeper) to retain proper input shaft engagement?

Pretty cool project! I've been a big Ford fan for years My high school car was a Pinto with a tunnel rammed, nitrous injected small block V-8 Ford, 9" 4:57 locker, Top Loader 4 speed

How big are your mills?

Kurt