New SBC roared to life
#1
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New SBC roared to life
I finished building the new 355 over the weekend and test fired. Started up fine and sounds great. A nice lope at idle. Really noticeable this is no stock 355. This will be motor #5 for the Challenger and I can't wait for warmer weather to hit! I timed the motor and adjusted the carb to a nice 800rpm idle. Once I get the MSD set up in the boat it should idle even better.
I pulled the risers after running and found very small amounts of water in the center ports of my manifolds indicating a little reversion. I figured I would be fine with my upgraded exhaust but I guess not. My plan is to weld 6" stainless extensions onto my risers to introduce water further back into the mix. Juding by the small amount of water, 6" further should do the trick.
Has anyone had any experience doing this?
I got a good video i'll try and post up later but here are a few pics.
Motor specs..
1980-85 4 bolt bored .030", align honed, decked .020"
Forged rotating assembly, Eagle 4340 crank, I beams w ARP 2000, Speedpro forged L2304 pistons w .100 dome. Setup is balanced very well.
224/230 .537/.511 112LSA 110ICL
Morel Retro Hyd Roller lifters
McQuillen Racing prepped AFR 190cc heads 2.02I 1.60E milled 74cc puts SCR @ 10.0-1 and DCR 7.8-1
Performer RPM, Crane 1.6 widebody roller rockers on intake and Lunati 1.52 widebodys on exhaust,
FluidDamper harmonic balancer
Smith Bros .80 wall pushrods
Holley 750 4150 DP
ARP everything
MSD ignition
Glenwood HP manifolds and 4" FastGlass Stainless short risers
I pulled the risers after running and found very small amounts of water in the center ports of my manifolds indicating a little reversion. I figured I would be fine with my upgraded exhaust but I guess not. My plan is to weld 6" stainless extensions onto my risers to introduce water further back into the mix. Juding by the small amount of water, 6" further should do the trick.
Has anyone had any experience doing this?
I got a good video i'll try and post up later but here are a few pics.
Motor specs..
1980-85 4 bolt bored .030", align honed, decked .020"
Forged rotating assembly, Eagle 4340 crank, I beams w ARP 2000, Speedpro forged L2304 pistons w .100 dome. Setup is balanced very well.
224/230 .537/.511 112LSA 110ICL
Morel Retro Hyd Roller lifters
McQuillen Racing prepped AFR 190cc heads 2.02I 1.60E milled 74cc puts SCR @ 10.0-1 and DCR 7.8-1
Performer RPM, Crane 1.6 widebody roller rockers on intake and Lunati 1.52 widebodys on exhaust,
FluidDamper harmonic balancer
Smith Bros .80 wall pushrods
Holley 750 4150 DP
ARP everything
MSD ignition
Glenwood HP manifolds and 4" FastGlass Stainless short risers
#4
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#5
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I got GM 010 4 bolt blocks, GM steel cranks, forged pistons, stage 3 bowtie angle plug heads, dual plane Holley intakes, 750 dp carbs 480 lift cams, 8 quart pans, Crane gold valvetrain, Revolution Marine exhaust........dynoed at 360hp/405 tq all done by 4800........I bought them in cleveland and had my guy go through them.......I said I was hopeing for more hp he said "yeah......but these almost make those tq numbers at idle.......they'll work great in a boat.......why dont you try them for a year and if you dont like them we'll put in a hotter camshaft, spin them up to 55 or 6 and make way over 400....easy"
I got alpha 1s too.....the motors came with a trick set of crossovers (were on a TRS set up).......do you run the stock water pump??.......Id like to run the crossovers but Im afraid
I got alpha 1s too.....the motors came with a trick set of crossovers (were on a TRS set up).......do you run the stock water pump??.......Id like to run the crossovers but Im afraid
#6
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Nice motors. Those should be very durable and torquey. I went for topend power with my setup. Very light boat does not need alot of low end. My previous 360SBC with same everything except hyd 224/224 .465 114, 9.1-compression revved to 5600rpms @ 70gps w a 23p MCR labbed cleaver.
With the same prop the new engine should go maybe 5700-6000 rpms? We'll find out soon.
I've been running w/o the stock circulating pump since 92. The impeller in the Alpha does the work. Never had any problems keeping the engine cool. 140 tstat keeps water temps under 150* even after extended WOT runs.
I boat in warm 70-80 degree water most of the time. I have it plumbed so water enters block first, once T stat opens it flows to manifolds then out the risers.
With the same prop the new engine should go maybe 5700-6000 rpms? We'll find out soon.
I've been running w/o the stock circulating pump since 92. The impeller in the Alpha does the work. Never had any problems keeping the engine cool. 140 tstat keeps water temps under 150* even after extended WOT runs.
I boat in warm 70-80 degree water most of the time. I have it plumbed so water enters block first, once T stat opens it flows to manifolds then out the risers.
#7
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I did 383's scat crank & rods world products sportsman 11 heads 72 cc 200 cc intake runners 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust isky valve springs ,cam pushrods & roller lifters are all from bullet racing . The cam is 223/231 duration @ .050 lift .530/.548 110 center line ,comp cams roller rockers 1.52 ratio 7/16 stud, edelbrock rpm intake manifold & 750 cfm carb. The motor dynoed at 425 hp @ 5450 rpm . I used stainless marine exhaust manifolds extended 11" no problems with reversion
#8
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I've been running w/o the stock circulating pump since 92. The impeller in the Alpha does the work. Never had any problems keeping the engine cool. 140 tstat keeps water temps under 150* even after extended WOT runs.
I boat in warm 70-80 degree water most of the time. I have it plumbed so water enters block first, once T stat opens it flows to manifolds then out the risers.
do you do alot of idleing??