How hard is it to replace a gimble ring when the engine is out of the boat?
 

Ok you read the title:drink:

I was checking the gimble ring before putting the engine back in. It's in bad shape, its even loose on the lower swivel pin:mad: I have read previous threads on the topic but can not find a solid answer. The manual makes it sound harder than it looks. Any advise guys:D

I would go ahead and pull the transom assembly and change it on the bench. It isn't that bad on the bech compared to on the boat. Pulling the upper pin on the boat involves drilling big holes on the sides and plugging them when you're done with the job. While you're there you can also install it with new nuts on the transom assy. Pulling the transom is relatively easy. The "downside" is that you'll get a good look at the condition of the wood in the transom which could lead to a bigger job.

Rene

I would prefer not to drill any holes:eek: that is why I am asking how hard it is? It looks as simple as remvoving the steering arm and the six bolts. Hoses, wires, and cables should slide out with housing? What am I missing.

Missing nothing , do it now!

Don't think this would need to be done with the engine out. Should be able to reach everything from inside the boat, but need some extra hands outside helping.

Loosen the U-bolt, loosen the nut/bolt on the steering arm, then loosen the top nut from inside the engine bay. Pin should slowly start to drop if you tilt the bell housing out of the way, or take the bell housing off first.

The only problem you'll have while its still on the transom is loosening the bolt that clamps the the steering lever. That bolt will be next to impossible to torque to the correct spec while on the boat. Your better off removing from the transom. If you need to borrow my Merc manuel let me know.
Also you may want to consider the HP gimbal ring kit.

Is that a dirrect bolt up? Can you mount the trim senders?

It is a direct bolt up but you may need the mechanical indicators. How much HP are you running ?

500-550HP using Dyno money for gimble ring:(

Have you ever done it that way? When I did mine, it would have been absolutely impossible to do on the boat, with the engine in, without cutting holes in the sides. I had a rotted nut on the top pin and ended up removing it with a punch instead of a wrench. If you've done it with the engine in, I would be pretty impressed.

Rene

If your going to keep the boat IMO I would not hesitate for the upgrade. If you replace with a stock unit it maybe a matter of time before your doing this again. I learned the hard way. Definetly remove the gimbal housing from the boat. While this is out re-seal the steering shaft, new bellows, gimbal bearing etc. I may even have a spare steering shaft seal.
I'm a firm believer of doing things right the first time. It will bite you in the azz and/or will haunt ya.

With the engine out, you shouldn't need to drill. The nut that holds the steering arm should be accessable from inside the bildge. Moreover, this nut doesn't have a torque spec. It requires about .1500 inch (If I remember correctly) clearence between steering arm and nut when tight.

If you have to drill, then don't follow the MerCrusier method, there is another method that is better and involves drilling out the thin name plate area. There is a guy on this board that has instructions, re-builds gimble rings and, makes a cover plate when the job is done.

PM me if you want the info and I will find his contact info.

He saved me $750 by re-building my ring and the rebuilt ring was as good as new if not better!

One more thing.

Gimble rings fail becasue of one of two reasons.

1. You hit something with the outdrive and it damaged the pin and ring and now you have play.

2. and more commonly. The u-bolt is made of soft metal and stretches over time. This introduces 'play' into the ring and pin. That little bit of play works into more and more play with use.

You should check torque the u-bolt occasionly. Once there's play, it is only a matter of time.

Lastly, I put a stainless steel u-bolt on mine which offers far higher tensil strength. However, it also won't stretch much, so when you use this kind, make sure you turn each side ONE FLAT AT A TIME, and keep both side of the u-bolt even.

Here's a picture of mine after I was done replacing the gimble ring... I used the Mercrusier metod because I didn't know about the name plate method. Notice the plugs.

New:
Gimble bearing and race
Coupler
all seals (the upper one was really tough to pull)
new belows

Give Me A Call. I Can Help You With What You Need. Ron Bender 216-390-1330

Thanks Ron, I planned on it. I am trying to get my ducks in order:D

Its raining here so I can not crawl inside the engine conpartment to see if it is possible to remove the upper shaft bolt without removing the assembly off the boat. Some said they have done it, I just don't see how it is possible. Like I said its my first time removing it, I just don't want any problems when boating season is a couple weeks away:drink:

I see why you misunderstood my comment. What I meant is that you should not have to drill holes to make this repair if the engine is out of the boat. It is tight, but you should be able to access all nuts/bolts, etc from inside the engine compartment.

1bigjim Scarab22-98 Is Is Wrong. Take It From A Mercruiser Guy The Nut That Holds The Steering Shaft In Place Is The One That Does Not Have A Torque Spec It Sets The Clearance For The Gimball Ring And The Lower Transom Plate Yoke. The Steering Arm Bolt Does Have A Torque Spec And You Cannot Get To It With The Transom Plate In The Boat.

So I am still confused:(

Can this be done from inside the engine compartment?
Has anyone truely done it?

I am jumping in it tomorrow, the suspense is killing me:eek:

It is so easy to pull the gimble I can't understand all the chatter, also if it is a salt boat you can bank on the bottom shield bolts being rotten. Get it out get it clean do the job and touch up the paint and put it back on the boat you will not regret it! If you were to find a transom issue better now then once up and running!

From the Merc Service Manual, the torque spec on the steering lever bolt is 45-55 lb. ft.

After reviewing the service maunal, it clearly would be much easier to do off the transom as others have pointed out. You still would have a difficult time actually getting a torque wrench on it, though.

Bingo

Absolutely!

Jim, as I said there is only 1 way to do this. There's alot of good feedback here for you. You can go in Bam's website & get the exploded view of everything. Print it out & highlight what you'll need. While the assy is off you can clean up the transom & seal the bare wood opening with resin. I went to the extreme of repainting everything from Merc with Imron & re-sprayed the pourous transom on the Bullet. If you want I can send you my Merc factory manual. Just do not get greasy finger prints on it.

Ok, thanks for the great replys.
I have a manual, and like I said it dosen't look that hard. Just my first time doing it.

Off she comes:evilb:

I will let everyone the outcome.

Biker, we are saying the same thing. Yes, the nut that holds the steering shaft in place does not have a torque spec, but rather requires a clearence.

No where in my post did I even mention the steering arm bolt. BTW, in my boat this was easily torqued with the transum in place.

scarab22-1998 reread your own post #12 the part that says steering arm!

fyi the u bolt is stainless steel !

The transom assembly should be installed with a new gasket.
If you must use sealer use boatlife, not 5200 !
If using 5200 the thing will be extremely difficult to remove and will end up delaminating the fiberglass upon removal creating more work.
For the guys doing the access plug thing, you will need a special 1"-11 1/2 Tpi tap. Mine cost me $87 You could probably get a Chinese knock off for far less.
You will need to mark out the holes perfectly and hole saw them patiently and straight. I like to use Bronze or Anodized aluminum plugs instead of the plastic ones.
I prefer setting the the lower thrust to .006 feeler gauge. I have found that works well.
Check out JRmarine.com they are the guy's with the gimbal ring repair and access plate.
Also I use an Armstrong 1 1/16 " water pump wrench for the upper swivel nut. Hope this is helpful, BBB

I read a previous thread where you mentioned the
Armstrong 1 1/16 " water pump wrench.
I have searched and searched, where can one find this?

Ok I did find one. BBB you must be using this wrench from inside the boat if you are putting holes in the side?

I can get them from a machine shop supply Co. nearby.
I wonder after doing so many T/a's how I managed without it ! Another interesting tool is the Ideal flexible hose clamp driver. I gave one to a good friend at a local shop and he was ecstatic ! I get them for $8 Very well spent indeed !