I just noticed that my skeg is slightly bent on my Bravo 3 outridrive ... I do have a complete spare outrdrive.

My questions are:

1- Is there a way of straightening the bent skeg while the outrdive is still attached to the boat? Is it a DIY project?

2- Can I just swap the Bravo 3 lowers from drive to drive? They are both of similar vintage (ca 1998/1999) and drive ratio of 2.0R. Is it a DIY project?

3- Swap complete outdrives...DIY, or should I have my marina swap the complete outdrives? $ for labor and I have to make an appointment and then tow it there.

Thanks,

Jamal

I tried straightening a bent skeg and broke off a larger piece.....you can easily swap the lowers only and take the bent lower to have straightened at your convienence.
Remove the props and zinc under the cavitation plate. Drain the fluid out of the drive and remove the drive shower pickup from the cavitation plate. Remove the nut under that zinc and the 6 bolts holding the upper and lower together. Reverse the process to put the other lower on your upper.

Dont get me wrong, I am in the business to make money. But sometimes there are things a customer can do to stay on the water rather than wait a week or two to have service work done.BUT!, if you miss something, It will coast more and take longer in the long run. If you are mechanically good with your hands, you could probably handle the lower swap out and drive fill with oil.

john

Before I swap the lower I thought to try to bent it back with a rubber hammer first...the skeg is bent in a large gentle arc.

If that does not work, I'll try to swap the lowers. How much harder is it to swap a complete outdrive?

Thanks,

Jamal

I haven't ever straightened a skeg, but aluminum doesn't like to be bent more than once. Aluminum castings don't like to be bent even once. I wouldn't try to bend it back. Bending it back with a hammer (even a rubber one) is risky. You can't control where the deflection will occure. It will try to deflect at the point of greatest moment which is at the gear housing. The casting is a little thicker there so the deflection may go down the skeg a bit. The chances of just snapping it off are too high. If you really are determined to try, use some kind of clamping arrangement so that you can focus on where the bend is. Swapping lowers is no more difficult than replacing an alpha water pump.
Rene

I just straightened mine by pulling the drive, laying it across a 4X4 to support the skeg, and beating it a long time with a large rubber mallet. The vibration moves it slowly back without snapping it. That is always a risk, but if it happens you can get a new skeg welded on. I have done a few and haven't snapped one yet.

I would definately NOT do this. It will either snap, or it's going to be wavey at best when you are done. Remove the lower and bring it into a shop.