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MSD advance springs??
I have the marine MSD distributors. THey advance 4 degrees at around 4500-5000 rpms acording to my light. My engines make their best top end power at 32 degrees. That means I have them set at 28 at 2000. THis is the lowest I can get a good reading.
People have said that I should take the advance springs out of the distributors and lock it in at 32 degrees. Please, those of you who hate the MSD set up, don't chime in unless you can help with the situation. I have these and I am going to use them because I loaned out one of my TB-iv's. I am trying to get the best set up with the MSD's Thanks, |
Oh and does anyone have a schematic on how to take the springs out if that is the way I decide to go?
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Lock them and be done with it. Start better, idle better, and run better with never any maintenance issues... and ignore the calls that its too hard on the starter...45 degrees well maybe but not 32, have been locking in stuff for yrs and have never had any starter problems. Its easy to lock out...can do in about 2 mins... Here is link.... see page 4 bottom....
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8360_frm%2023793.pdf |
Originally Posted by jdnca1
(Post 2164620)
Lock them and be done with it. Start better, idle better, and run better with never any maintenance issues... and ignore the calls that its too hard on the starter...45 degrees well maybe but not 32, have been locking in stuff for yrs and have never had any starter problems. Its easy to lock out...can do in about 2 mins... Here is link.... see page 4 bottom....
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8360_frm%2023793.pdf |
You have to pull it out because you have to drive the roll pin out of the gear so the whole assembly can lift up a couple of inches and be rotated around 180 degrees....no biggie, but it must come out....:drink:
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Ive never had any problems with the springs on my MSD systems...had them in my old K5 blazer w/383 and had them in my old scarabII w/454's
It takes a little playing with but once you get the right spring combo in and maybe even change the bushings it runs like a top :) |
After discussing with some other guys on the phone and reading literature. I need to run the black bushings 18 degrees. THe biggest ones. And the lightest springs so that I am at full advance at around 15-1600 rpms.
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Take a close look at the counter weight assembly and it's weak spotwelds. You may consider welding or brazing them to keep things together. If you don't you may be sorry.
I've been there, BBB |
Originally Posted by jeff1000man
(Post 2164771)
After discussing with some other guys on the phone and reading literature. I need to run the black bushings 18 degrees. THe biggest ones. And the lightest springs so that I am at full advance at around 15-1600 rpms.
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Originally Posted by jdnca1
(Post 2166583)
Why do they and you feel it needs a curve in it? If you want full advance by 1500 then why bother putting a curve in it;) ....you are not going to hurt your starter...Full advance= start better, idle better. Nothing to play with or ever worry about....keep it simple.
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