i made a stainless bracket ,now i am at a stumbling point , the fitting that is at the input to the thermostat from the engine is a straight -12.

the fitting from the oil block is a 90 dergree.


i think i need to put a 45 on the hot on the thermostat and put a 60 degree on the oil block... or vice versa...

trying to keep the lines short and clean as possible..

the big question is if i use the 90 on the oil block and direct it down and make the hose do a "U " shape to the straight fitting on the input on the thermo , am i asking that hose to bend to much????

i thought of running the hose down and place under the cooler/over the water crossover tube and back around and up the back side...

or , just bite the bullet and get the 45 and 60 degree fitting's and keep it short...

thanks....

under cooler ???some reason my pen will not fully cover..

Would (2) 45's and a short hose work?

2 45's would give it a odd angle , i have a degree dial and seems like it needs a 60 and a 45 for a cleaner shot.

i purchased fittings over 2 years ago and am finally getting to full dress..

you can see the in/out on the cooler is clean and direct...

i can bend the hose but i don't know what is "too tight" of a radius..

heres a eickert power plant from jacksonville ,looks like the thermo is mounted off the ignition bracket which is higher up ...
gives more room to play with...

i'm trying to keep it compact..

Ok, how about two 52.5 degree fittings? Take a 45 and tweak it by putting one end in the alum jaws in the vise and open up the angle. I have successfully done this one than once. It will only cost you $20 to try. If you are concerned, Earls makes a test kit for completed hoses to check for leaks using air pressure. 7 to 8 degrees on a -10 or -12 fitting should be easy.

Don't want to try to bend your tube fittings? Here is another method I have used. Buy two forged 45 degree fittings and cut 1/2 way thru. Open the angle of the fitting to the exact position and then weld the joint. The only draw back is isn't as pretty. This shouldn't be an issue for the bottom fitting at the engine exit. XRP makes the forged fittings.

staying away from forged and i'm not going to attempt to bend and weld fittings...

i'm sure that someone who does this on a daily basis can look at that pic and tell me what will work...

looks like the power of oso is falling off a bit......

Here is a picture that shows a -10 90 degree fitting that has been tweaked to fit. Notice it is more than a 90.; this isn't hard to do and none have ever leaked.

the fittings are earls full swivels , so i am leary on bending them ,i'm going to just order some 45's ,60's, and some connectors ...

see you have eickert pieces..like how you went with the safety wire on your bolts..that's peace of mind...

what ps resovoir are you using??

went with the krc..