after you run it drain the water from the bottom of the CMI's , let it sit for a few days and if it still acts up then its not water, but if it starts fine you might have a leaking header, I hope not they are big bucks. I rigged up an automotive radiator pressure tester to pressure test my exhaust,

I think you can send them back to CMI and they can repair them. If it's one of the welds at the flanges I will repair that myself. Nothing a little TIG welding want take care of. I really don't want to repair a header, but on the other hand I would like to find out what the problem is.

I Had The Same Problem And Thought It Was The Starter But Was The Header Leaking Filling Up #6.

Good Luck

Was yours leaking at the flange or somewhere else. I was trying to figure out it the headers are mandrel bent as one piece inside or if it has welded splices in it.

WHEN YOU TAKE THE HEADER OFF AND LOOK WERE IT BOLTS TO THE HEAD THATS WERE MINE LEAKED THATS WHY IT ONLY WENT IN ONE HOLE...

I hope that's where mine is leaking because I can weld that up.

Well it's been two years now and still have not found the problem. It's not the headers leaking, I've replaced the battery cables, I replaced the starter. Now when I turn the key I get a single click, then nothing. Turn it again and and the same thing, sometimes it take three or four turns before it will turn over. Yesterday I shut the boat off two times and it did it both times. Friday I started the boat for the first time of the season and it did not do it at all.

This may not be the problem, but did you check the flywheel for missing teeth? Does it free spinn when you hit the key or is it just a click?

Try swapping the slave solonoid with the other eng. or just replace it.

Flywheel is in good shape. Thanks anyway.