I had to replace my lanyard for the kill switch. It drove me crazy as it too would start missing or die when I hit small wakes. The plastic clip gets weak after years of sun and all of a sudden you have a loose clip on the kill switch.

Good Luck,

I think the lanyards are farely cheap, I would go ahead and replace it. Thats a pretty cheap process of elimination.

Had a kill switch act up on me in Lake Huron this summer in rougher water. Port engine just quit while on plane Pushed on the clip holding the red button in and the engine fired right up again.I just replaced both of them, they could have been 10 years old.

That is what i did did get home but for a while i thought i was going to have to get a tow. I just discovered what was wrong by accident.

where you have a wire, loose the connectors that are screwed, and tight them back. sometimes a little corrosion on wires may effect the contact between the wire and the screws. by loosen them you kind of clean them, or move the sh.t away and it sometimes help... It did for me!

When it goes out do you have power at the dash or does the dash die too? Could be the main plug or the main fuse coming from the starter.

What is the volt meter doing, I chased simular problem all spring turned out to be my alternator, alternator shop said it wasn't my problem but it went away when I changed it. The problem was bump related but would also do it some times in flat water conditions, volt meter would drop as long as it was missing then clear up and charge, good luck.

Eddie

Glad to hear I'm not loosing my mind and some one else having similar problems.
Engine cutting out start happening this weekend. (Sun spots??)
With a 496 HO's I was told that the motor was going into "guradian mode" due to fuel issues. I have a hard time beilving this. Both engines should experience the same problems due to fuel issues.
All electrical connections are good. Computer problem???
It's a bitzh, having one of your motors out while running full speed. It's like dropping and anchor overboard. My motor started right up after correcting to the sharp turn. Did not really shut down. Actually I did not even had to turn on the motor, it never died, just lost all power. and all gauges were ok. RPM died and it went back up.
Happens random, wake, smooth seas or whatever. Just one motor said " I had enough" for a few seconds.
Weard.

P

OK. I loosened every ground wire I could find, cleaned, inspected and re-tightened. I pulled the battery ground cable and cleaned , tightened it. I hung upside down for quite a while , inspecting and tightening connections on the side of block, behind block, etc...
I unplugged the main harness and the harness to the t-bolt module. I cleaned all the terminals and plugged everything back in.
All looked good so far....
I went ahead and pulled the distributor cap and found some mild corrosion on the inside terminals. I cleaned the cap and rotor, then found some heavy green corrosion build up in the coil wire terminal. It was pretty bad. I "think" this could "possibly" be the culprit, but I`m not convinced yet.
I went ahead and pulled the dash panel to inspect the wires there. I found that the nut to the tachometer ground wire had completely backed off. This is probably why the tach was flickering, but I don`t think this would cause the engine to cut out ... ?
I went ahead and removed the kill switch and plan on buying a new one tomorrow.
I think I`ll fire it up on the hose tomorrow and tap around with a screwdriver handle to see if I can make it stutter.

Maybe I fixed it ... ?

To answer the question ---

I never noticed any of the gauges acting up when the engine was cutting out --- except the tach. It always flickered when the engine cut out. I did not notice the volt meter, but it could have possibly been dropping.