Loose bell housings
#1
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Boat-LOTO/Home-St Louis
I was told by the shop that my bell housings were loose and that they would need to be replaced without taking them apart? Sound right? 1991 Merc 465's Bravo 1's 250 hours no symptoms the boat was in for routine service.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by MOERON; 11-19-2007 at 08:09 PM.
#3
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,111
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From: Austin,Texas
The Bellhousings could be bad because the threads where the pin attach are wobbled loose. It is easy to see. Just lift the cav plate while looking at movement in pins. The loads on the drive will eat the threads out. The HP pins where developed to remedy that problem. You are lucky someone pointed that out to you they ultimate failure may have been the drive hanging off by the indicator cables and tie bar. If you run it hard you should concider HP rings and Bellhousings.
Jim
Jim
#4
If it is the threads they can be heli coiled without taking apart. Kind of tricky but it can be done.
#5
I too have a loose pin on a Bravo 1 which you can see when you lift the cavitation plate. Brought new pins (pt no. 10-86801 HINGE SCREW) and bushing (pt no 23-847637 Bushing) but what do you mean by HP? Do I need something else??
Engine is a Merc HP425 (454 big block)
Engine is a Merc HP425 (454 big block)
#6
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,682
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From: Boca Raton, FL
Refer to the "Flywheel Weight" thread. We have guys on this that can figure anything out. It will be hashed, re-hashed, over-analysed and you will fall asleep reading the rhetoric.
The bad part is: You won't learn a thing!
The bad part is: You won't learn a thing!
#7
I too have a loose pin on a Bravo 1 which you can see when you lift the cavitation plate. Brought new pins (pt no. 10-86801 HINGE SCREW) and bushing (pt no 23-847637 Bushing) but what do you mean by HP? Do I need something else??
Engine is a Merc HP425 (454 big block)
Engine is a Merc HP425 (454 big block)
BT
#8
thanks so I guess I need to check the threads - I assume the bore or pin wear less from the reply.
So I drop the leg remove the gimbal and helicoil new threads and rebuild. Does loctite help or is it a no no.

Maybe after new bushes and a tighten I might be OK?
So I drop the leg remove the gimbal and helicoil new threads and rebuild. Does loctite help or is it a no no.

Maybe after new bushes and a tighten I might be OK?
#9
Chances are the threads are shot and you need to helicoil. Remove the outdrive, remove the 2 pins and pull out the helmet as far as you can. The bellows will be resisting. Wedge it so it stays out so the threaded hole is clear. Put something like sheet metal behind the threaded hole to prevent the heli coil drill bit from going through the bellows. Then do the normal heli coil install procedure.
BT
#10
If you put in new bushing and the new pins can be tightened to the torque spec., you are good to go. The strongest loctite you can get is what you want to use on the threads of the pins.
Chances are the threads are shot and you need to helicoil. Remove the outdrive, remove the 2 pins and pull out the helmet as far as you can. The bellows will be resisting. Wedge it so it stays out so the threaded hole is clear. Put something like sheet metal behind the threaded hole to prevent the heli coil drill bit from going through the bellows. Then do the normal heli coil install procedure.
BT
Chances are the threads are shot and you need to helicoil. Remove the outdrive, remove the 2 pins and pull out the helmet as far as you can. The bellows will be resisting. Wedge it so it stays out so the threaded hole is clear. Put something like sheet metal behind the threaded hole to prevent the heli coil drill bit from going through the bellows. Then do the normal heli coil install procedure.
BT

Dave would that be the PINK loctite?
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Gellner Engineering 1025"s
Gellner Engineering 1025"s




