check for colapsed hoses. Check the fitting on thye transom assembly.

I will be in town on the 22nd if you have not figured this out yet.

where are you kepping the boat?

Thanks for the tips guys. I did check the plastic inlet as well as every hose and connection from the transom all the way to the intake on the front of the engine. Everything looked really good and fresh so I am going to try the t-stat now.

By U Boy I am going back to work Wednesday but I will be coming back in on the 21st if you wanna get together and shoot the sh!t. My number is 504-875-5561. Give me a shout bro. The boat is being stored at a faclity on Fremeau.
Take care,
Chuck

Hey Chuck you could check to make sure you did not swap the suction and discharge hoses on the water pump. They are very close and it would look correct either way. I do know of a problem a friend had with a boat he purchased, the previous owner did not flush it out. It would run fine on the hose and at idle, but under a load it would run hot. The salt had accumulated so much in the water passages that if not on the hoses it was not getting water. Pulled the drive, cleaned the drive-no problem!

hey chuck
sorry to hear you are having problems ....the only thing i can say is check for any blockages ......does it look like there is enough water comming out of the exhaust ????....

saw you the other night in the canal.....i am not sure you heard me but that was me standing on the end of the boat house dock ........ that boat looks real nice love the paint.........i really hope you get this problem fixed and can be on the water with us soon!!!!!

Ran today again and both engines are running hot. A buddy of mine said that it may be blockage in the manifolds. I am thinking of pulling the drives and checking from start to finish on the cooling system.
I am going to try the saltaway trick first though Griff because that will be alot easier than pulling the drives. I wish I had a shop to do all of this in but for now I will do it when I can. Thanks for all the input guys. I will keep you posted.

Salt Away will not cure the problem nor will it prevent the "S" shaped water inlet hose located in the transom assembly from failing. Salt water corrosion builds up around these hoses and causes the hose to close up from corrosion on the outside of the hose. Running at WOT (wide open throttle) will usually cause the Bravo water pump impeller to fail when corrosion reaches a certain point and hose restriction lessens volumn of water going to engine water pump. Engine temps sometimes climb slowly at WOT to indicate this problem and other times do not increase until water pump impeller fails. Water pressure gauges will always give a heads up on this problem when water pressure drops at WOT. This is a very common problem with Bravo outdrives in salt water. Remove the outdrives and renew the hoses and plastic inserts.

I think this is probably the issue as well. The salt away may only act as temporary fix.

Chuck, I'm digging this one up so as not to hijack your rebuild thread. Which t-stat housing do your motors have? Is it the big black hunk of iron?

I had a problem with my motors running hot, checked everything, tried everything. At first I realized I put the wrong upper gasket in. Changed 'em to the correct gasket and that fixed one motor. But I had to change the whole t-stat housing on the other engine before it would run the correct temp.

I'm actually running two different housings now, the stock one and the stainless sierra piece. I drilled a few holes in the t-stat under the Sierra housing, but otherwise they both run identical, and proper temps.