Oil coolers with thermostats
 

Anyone running these? I see Hardin marine has some as well as a few others. Are they reliable, can you change the stat's down the road if they fail?

thanks, Josh

if you have the oil cooler you could just add the oil thermostat.
Here is few at summit racing.


http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...0+115&x=35&y=9

I don't have a cooler yet. That's why I was thinking of getting one that already had the stat if it's gonna be a reliable piece. Just don't want to have cooler problems later and not be able to replace the stat....

josh

you need to be aware that most of the automotive thermostats open at 180* ... Depends on what your trying to accomplish ... most say in a marine application you need the 212* temps to help minimize condensation/moisture in the oil .... The hardin marine is top notch and the combination cooler/thermostat is easy to rig and saves space ...

Mocal makes a 200* stat ...I'm not sure if that is close enough or not .......m

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/pdfs/pg33.pdf

Josh, yes the thermostat is fully replaceable and could be changed with no problem at all.

Oil Coolers

Brad
CP Performance

Thanks for the info Brad! :D

josh

CP /Keith thermostat.

My oil cooler came from Eddies,

I bet CP can get the same as Eddies

More info from you will yield more and better (hopefully) answers.

If you're increasing hp it's quite possible you will need a bigger oil cooler. Having a t-stat to control oil temp is a good idea. You might also want to consider getting rid of the restrictive stock Merc oil lines (if you're still using them) and go to larger ID lines and AN fittings. And, an oil temp gauge is a definite must do, IMHO.

The original question...... yes, eplacement t-stats are available for Hardin oil coolers. I replaced mine about a year ago.

If your ZZ502 is not in the boat, this would be a good time to remove the center bypass valve in the oil pad (where the oil filter would be in an automotive application). Also, you should change the side bypass valve from the 11 lb to a 30 lb bypass valve. Might wanna do a search on this subject as it has been a few years since I did this to my ZZ502. Just want to make sure the info I'm spouting is accurrate :rolleyes:

kidnova - yep, I'm going to do all that (make up new lines, change/remove bypass') Just trying to decide on cooler with stat or maybe use a hp500 filter housing with stat and a 3x18" cooler?

Is it correct to assume that the bypass is done through the tube on top. So you only need to hook up 2 oil lines to it. The reason I ask is because this would save alot of plumbing vs a remote thermostat.