496 MIV's ~550-600HP ..... motors are new builds since oct and still chasing gremlins ... I find it hard to believe both stats are bad ...m

Talked to Mike at CP and he thinks the cooler might be oversized ....hmmmm ...again I would think the Thermosat should bypass the cooler as needed ... He Agreed that maybe ajustable water bypass around the cooler might work ...Sounds like a thermosat to me ......m

Hi Offthefront,

Where are you taking the temp readings; remote filter housings or the pan?

we tapped the blank port on the thermostat ...seen in the pic ..its in direct flow of the oil coming from the block ( thru filter first .. The milkshake on the bottom of the breathers is evidence the oil is too cool ...m

I had the same problem. My cooler was to large, after scratching my head for a week and didn't want to change the cooler to a smaller unit I bought one of these about $45.00 from Summit Racing installed it on the existing cooler and walla it 's been working for 2 years now and no problems. When oil temperature exceeds 180°F the thermostatic valve closes, allowing 95% flow through the oil cooler. At temperatures below 180°F the valve is open, with 90% of the oil bypassing the cooler. The remaining 10% of the oil flows through the cooler, maintaining constant system pressure, preventing air pockets and eliminating cold oil shock. Flows up to 20 gallons per minute (GPM). Rated to 200 p.s.i. Thermostat mounting kits containing four brass fittings, four stainless steel hose clamps and two nylon tie mounts are sold separately. http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page14.html

that unit keeps the oil below 200* ....it needs to be above 200* .........

Hers one that opens at 200 degrees. If that helps.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/d...hermostats.pdf

I Ran the boat today with a water bypass installed around the oil cooler and pretty much no change ... I installed the valve in the bypass line and maybe it need to be in the main line feeding the cooler... However ... Ran at 3200 for about 3-4 miles (after a 10 min idle zone) and both temps come up to about 160 (oil)and then ran 4000 for about 4 miles and temps did come up to 180's... actually the motor without the bypass ran a little warmer on oil temps ... both water and oil ...motor with the water thermostat runs about 150-160 (water) at 4000rpm and the one without runs 140-150(water) ... I guess the bottom line is you need to run it hard to get the oil temps up ... It could be worse and be too hot .... The water line from the pump to the cooler is 1.25 and the bypass is 1". maybe a valve in the 1.25" after the bypass to restrict more flow to the cooler might work better but the whole bypass Idea is an abortion (plumbing wise)...... m

Good Argument for the Rev Limiter (wife) to get the revs up ....

Wonder why you temp came up on the first bypass test in the first thred and not on this test? Weird

The first test bypassed the oil around the cooler ...no oil thru the cooler ... Second test bypassed the water around the cooler ....but not totally ..just a shunt around the cooler with 1.25" water line intact ....it was a 1" bypas with a 3/4" gate valve ... Since then I bypassed the other motor with a 1.25" line with a 1.25" ball Valve ....better results but not there yet ... next will be the 1.25" bypass with ball valves in the Bypass AND the water Supply leaving the Oil cooler so I can Throttle back water thru the cooler .... I think that might do it ...m