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I have the KE 2 Piece valve covers and am going to run two lines to a tank much higher than the breathers. I have the same problem.
I added 2" of hose to my breathers for the last run of the year and it was enough to stop the oil from getting up there. Puke tanks arent too bad $$. If I can help, let me know. Check out CP Performance and Rex. I am a dealer for both!! Kirk |
Heres the style I'm going with:
http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=2660 Email me at [email protected] if you want pricing. They'll be on my website tomorrow!! I like the vertical tank that Nocigarette shows in his picture. Where'd you get that? |
Originally Posted by Vinny P
(Post 2431951)
Yeah, that seems to work, but I dont like the fact that it pumps more hot air and possibly a bit of oil to the intake. Theres enough horsepower robbing hot air in there, dont want to pump any more into it.
The puke tanks that pantera posted is nice and is something i would do if i had a place to put it.( that i leked where it was.)so untill then i willcontinue to wipe my VC off.:( |
:cool-smiley-027:
If you have a puke tank, you have to mount it, empty it, look at it. If you plumb to the intake, it heats up the mix. What about plumbing to exhaust with an inline checkvalve? Could use it to provide vac pressure at speed if plumbed right. Just an idea..:p |
Vinny,
Got the motor out just before Super Bowl. Sittin on the engine stand, now is the time to make brackets for everything. I dont think I have room for a VP. It would be nice but. I have my valve covers vented to the flame arrestors and there is oil at the base of them all the time. So I know it will be worse when I PSI the motor.. Dick |
Originally Posted by nwimbush
(Post 2432027)
:cool-smiley-027:
If you have a puke tank, you have to mount it, empty it, look at it. If you plumb to the intake, it heats up the mix. What about plumbing to exhaust with an inline checkvalve? Could use it to provide vac pressure at speed if plumbed right. Just an idea..:p The idea of plumbing it into wet exhaust scares me.If the valve fails, BOOM! |
Dick,
I will try to call you tonight at the usual time. Kirk, I have seen that style before and like it. I am still sitting on the fence with what to do. The next question is, do you still need baffles or will the length of the hose negate that need. nwimbush, I have rigged several drag race cars that way. It always worked well with a bung welded into the collector and a check valve. Interesting idea for a boat. In my case, I think it will be possible and safe since I run full dry pipes. By u boy, Interestingly enough, I got a call today from a very reputable company. He saw this thread and told me they have rigged many engines simply by drilling a hole in the bottom of the flame arrestor and plumbing lines from 1 port of the each valve cover. Personally, the idea of sucking heat into the carb bothers me. |
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I plan on using fuel tank foam in the adapter prior to the hose running up to the puke tank. Providing you can get a few inches higher than the valve covers, i doubt I will have drain it much if at all.
The premis is that the oil vapor will not reach as high as the tank, if it does, it should cool and drain back into the valve covers. We'll know this summer!! Tired of oil messing up my engine!! |
Originally Posted by cdscarab
(Post 2431436)
mrhp1, what make pump and do you have a pic or 2 to show how you did it. thanks chuck
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Originally Posted by Vinny P
(Post 2431681)
Yes, that is an interesting idea. A few pictures would be great. Although I dont know how or where I can mount the pump, especially with the serp belt that I run.
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