How to prevent oil from pushing through breathers?
 

I have been having a minor problem with oil pushing past the breathers. The engine is fresh, leakdown is good. Normal amount of blow by, nothing to even consider. The problem only occurs after long full throttle or near full throttle runs. Even then, it isnt much. It just squirts out a bit of oil on both valve covers. Its just that I am such an anal SOB, it bothers the crap out of me. I have looked into hooking up a recovery system, but cant find anything I like. What are you guys doing?

Is there a baffle on the inside of the valve cover?

oil leak
 

Run puke tanks on the motors if it bothers you.I got two for sale ,was going to put them on my blower motors but had no room. JOHN

Yes, there are baffles inside of the adapters that screw into the covers.

I was thinking of puke tanks, but couldnt figure out a way to plumb them that satisfied me.

this worked for me...ya have to make it your self but it works great

Thanks, that is what I was thinking of. The only problem is I cant find anything to screw into the covers, except for what I have. Anyone done something similiar with 2 piece Eckerts like I have?

Are the breather holes threaded in your valve covers if so you can use aeroquipp fittings to get to what ya need i will find a pick for ya.........If they are not ya have to weld a threaded fitting from the back side......

I was lucky mine were already aluminum, so i just welded some #12 90's into my threaded bungs hope this helps......I think imco makes something also, check there web site....

Vinny, let me know what you come up with. I will have to do something with mine also.
I have regular Chevy Aluminum covers.. push in with grommets.

Dick

Install a vac. pump. You will be bolting on 35-40 Horsepower and keep the engine sealed! I run them all the time on pleasure boat applications.

mrhp1, what make pump and do you have a pic or 2 to show how you did it. thanks chuck

:cool-smiley-027:
Yeah, MrHP1, perhaps you cna show us which part goes where? I've attached a spec for reference...:party-smiley-048:

Yes, that is an interesting idea. A few pictures would be great. Although I dont know how or where I can mount the pump, especially with the serp belt that I run.

Yes, they are threaded. From information on Hardin Marines site, it seems that they are threaded to -20 an. I am thinking about getting 2 oil fill plugs from Hardin, then just drilling and tapping whatever size pipe thread I need into the plug. Summit has Moroso puke tanks that may work well.


Dick,
Yeah, I will keep you posted. Did you get the barn plowed out and the engine out today?

I run a vacuum pump and it is great for oil blow-by control. I don't agreed with the 30+ hp in a wet sump marine application. My dyno experience with standard tension oil rings @ 15" of vacuum is less than 10 HP. Any more vacuum than 15" caused my oil pressure to fluctuate on the dyno...VP fighting the oil pump.
For absolute blow by control on a wet sump system, all you need is any negative pressure. To rig this VP system right, figure on a $1500+ project.
You can use one VP on twin BB....works great.

Why not just run some hoses to the flame arrester??

Having the same problem with my 454's wet sump system.I have the old school alum valve covers with the ribs on top and push in breathers. 1 on each side. After a day running I will have oil in the ribs of covers. I thought that if I plumbed this to the air cleaner it would foul my carb. Am I right ? Plus really liked the clean look of nothing going flame arrester. I can't see spending 1500 to keep me from wiping alittle oil but interested in any other ideas.

a complete vcumm pump kit can be had for 750 bucks v belt im going to run this comming season on my 598 it looks pretty clear on the set up .

Yeah, that seems to work, but I dont like the fact that it pumps more hot air and possibly a bit of oil to the intake. Theres enough horsepower robbing hot air in there, dont want to pump any more into it.

I have the KE 2 Piece valve covers and am going to run two lines to a tank much higher than the breathers. I have the same problem.

I added 2" of hose to my breathers for the last run of the year and it was enough to stop the oil from getting up there.

Puke tanks arent too bad $$.

If I can help, let me know. Check out CP Performance and Rex. I am a dealer for both!!

Kirk

Heres the style I'm going with:

http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=2660

Email me at [email protected] if you want pricing.

They'll be on my website tomorrow!!

I like the vertical tank that Nocigarette shows in his picture.

Where'd you get that?

yeah thats kind of the reason i don't do it but if you think about it is still going into the engine unless you have a very well ventilated engine compartment.

The puke tanks that pantera posted is nice and is something i would do if i had a place to put it.( that i leked where it was.)so untill then i willcontinue to wipe my VC off.:(

:cool-smiley-027:
If you have a puke tank, you have to mount it, empty it, look at it. If you plumb to the intake, it heats up the mix. What about plumbing to exhaust with an inline checkvalve? Could use it to provide vac pressure at speed if plumbed right.
Just an idea..:p

Vinny,
Got the motor out just before Super Bowl. Sittin on the engine stand, now is the time to make brackets for everything. I dont think I have room for a VP. It would be nice but.
I have my valve covers vented to the flame arrestors and there is oil at the base of them all the time. So I know it will be worse when I PSI the motor..

Dick

I see that with a lot of jet boats.
The idea of plumbing it into wet exhaust scares me.If the valve fails, BOOM!

Dick,
I will try to call you tonight at the usual time.

Kirk,
I have seen that style before and like it. I am still sitting on the fence with what to do. The next question is, do you still need baffles or will the length of the hose negate that need.

nwimbush,
I have rigged several drag race cars that way. It always worked well with a bung welded into the collector and a check valve. Interesting idea for a boat. In my case, I think it will be possible and safe since I run full dry pipes.

By u boy,
Interestingly enough, I got a call today from a very reputable company. He saw this thread and told me they have rigged many engines simply by drilling a hole in the bottom of the flame arrestor and plumbing lines from 1 port of the each valve cover. Personally, the idea of sucking heat into the carb bothers me.

I plan on using fuel tank foam in the adapter prior to the hose running up to the puke tank. Providing you can get a few inches higher than the valve covers, i doubt I will have drain it much if at all.

The premis is that the oil vapor will not reach as high as the tank, if it does, it should cool and drain back into the valve covers.

We'll know this summer!! Tired of oil messing up my engine!!

I use Moroso Vac. pumps. The pumps are belt driven either with a V belt or cog style belt. I usually mount them on the cylinder head. You do not run any breathers. The vac. can be pulled from one valev cover or lifter valley. They also make a adjustable pressure relief / regulator which gets installed in one valve cover. I will drum up some photos.

I am working on an electric kit which will make install and plumbing a breeze.

I have seen on average 30+ HP and can guarantee this with 15 inches of vacuum. This will not cause oil pressure to fluctuate. Believe me, I have been able to pull 40 inches of crankcase vacuum on my NHRA Pro Stocker and it does not effect oil pressure. I use one pump per engine, on pleasure boat applications I run 15 inches all day long.

:Whatever:

Dean,
30+ HP at 15" of vacuum with standard tension or low tension oil rings?
Ben

That's what I did. No more oil film on my clean engine.

Kirk,

I was thinking the same thing. :D

Vinny,I extended my tubes on the valve covers like I have done on circle track motors,I also mounted both tubes to the front of the valve covers(no rear) so the oil won't climb up the vent from high speed. When my rings start to get tired/leakdown goes up before I freshen the motor I run rolled up scotchbrite in the tubes to help stop the oilfrom making its way out. I tried a homeade puke tank using -8 hoses to a small tank on a blown 502 years ago but the oil would vent out of the tank and it started pressurizing the motor and pushing the seals out,Smitty
I attached a couple of pics,if you look close you will notice the breather elements on top of the tubes,the tubes are approx 10" tall.

Standard tension. With the low tension I have seen about 7 HP or so more. I have dynoed about 50 engines we have done alot a vacuum testing on and every one has had the same gains in power. I have a new system which is going through the patent office right now.

Here is some more info/opinions on engine vacuum.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?=&p=49495

Smitty,
I have thought about extending the height of the breathers as you did. Today, I have come to a decision on what I am going to do. I ordered Imco's 10" x 3" puke tank. I came up wih a good way of using my existing valve cover adapters to plumb 2 -12 AN lines to the tank. I can incorporate enough fuel cell foam in the adapters if needed to limit the flow. It should look good, I just hope its functional.

I had the same problem with a customers boat last year and I welded # 16 fitting into the valve covers, repowder coated them and ran hoses to the flame arrester. Problem solved