paulkairis

Hey guys, i'm messin with some carb changes on my gen 4 502 (600+hp) With a 4 into 4 marine exhaust, has any one tryed to use a f/a gauge instead of reading the plugs when dialing in your carb, and whats the pros and cons of each.??
Wide band or standard? where would you put the o2 sensor?? THANKS Paul

Andy

I am getting Innovative Motorsports wiide band O2's for my blower engines and putting the sensor in the collector. They give true readings at idle all the way through wide open throttle. Give me a call if you need a sensor and gauge package as I am a dealer for them and will give the OSO members a smoking deal on them. Andy..

VegasHallett

I purchased the Innovative motorsports G2 gauge and love it. I can jet and change the air bleeds and see the results all the way thru the rpm's. I put the O2 sensor in the riser and have no issues. With the sensor I can make all the necessary changes and acuratley adjust to keep any abnormal rich/lean spots out, which my 1050 dominator had many. They even give you the software so you can hook to the module via your lap top and make a couple of runs and save all the graphs/readings.

Reading the plugs is OK but reading the air fuel gauge makes alot more sense and only cost $300 one time. That's cheap insurance for my engine.

paulkairis

i like what i'm here'in. i don't know all my ext. terms but i visualize the o2 sensor going into the single wall tube as close to the collector as possible. which is at the top of my riser right where the water tube bepasses the jiont and dumps into the tailpipe which is slanted from there to the transom. is distance from the engine a factor like with exh. temp senders or not. also in that area i see the o2 sensor getting wet on idle from reversion with my big bump stick. will parking it with water on the2 sensor each time cause a problem?? does anybody have pics of their o2. Also am i looking at 1 gauge 1 sender or do we need to sniff both sides?? THANKS

Warlock28SXT

Here is where I have installed my o2 sensor. I spoke with CMI for placement. The sensor should be higher in the the end of the collector due to water/condensation sitting on the sensor. I leave the o2 plugged into power for a while after running the boat to let the o2 dry out to prolong it's life. I installed it to keep it more out of sight.

paulkairis

NICE Warlock, thanks for the pics. but putting it b-4 the joint gets you into the double wall tube right?? how did you seal the inner so that water does'nt leak down your primaries??

paulkairis

on a digital gauge what range is best. and how much will it change through out the rpm range. THANKS

VegasHallett

My gauges reads from 1about 13.5 at an idle to about 12.2 wide open. If your carb is setup perfect is won't change much. You might see it change a little when you open the secondaries. I also attached a photo where mine is welded in. The lower the number the richer the engine is running. I like running mine lean at an idle, when there is not much load on the engine. It keeps the plugs clean and starts easy.

Search the forum and you can get the feel where most people run there motor's or talk to an engine expert.

Good Luck

VegasHallett

Hey Kirk,

Everything is going well. I'm still working out some prop issues , but the boat ran great during the Desert Storm Poker run in Havasu.

Those CMI mufflers I got from you are very quiet and most people don't hear me until I go by. I love the mufflers it makes my 725 HP motor seem as quiet as a stock one.

I also just put on the Innovative marine drive shower. Man that things works great and I don't have to worry about drilling any hloes in the drive. Thanks for your help!!!!

Warlock28SXT

Paulkairis
If you look close at the pic you can see that there is a clamp just past the o2. I removed the tail pipe, with the bung close to the end of the collector you have enough room to weld both the inside and the outside, no leaks.