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stats tend to make the exhaust headers run hot. if you have s.s headers like cmi for example, the constant expansion and contraction is not good for them.
assuming my water pressure is an issue, does this explain condensation in the oil, or just lack of heat build up? as for this, no not psi, oil temp. remember water bolis @212 and steams @215. so no oil stat , expect some condensation |
Dude - get some guages.
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Originally Posted by Ran-Dom 32
(Post 2550903)
I do not have oil temp gauges, but I may hook up a temporary gauge to check
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Originally Posted by DiamondPerformance
(Post 2551588)
Can you get your hands on a Temp. Gun and shoot the oil filter after a hard run?
great idea, My brother in law has a temp gun he uses for Powdercoating, thanks for everyone's help, BTW Monstaa, I am running CMI's , My plan was to run the t-stats until the lake water temps rises & then pull them out. |
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If you want some gauges for testing and set-up, I think have some take-outs of water pressure and oil temp you can have for $15 ea. I agree on the need for oil thermostats, it is difficult to get oil temp high enough for long enough to keep the condensation out w/o extended high RPM runs.
In the Mid-West, the cool evenvings are likely adding condensation inside the engine every night after boating. |
I'm not running t-stats either. I was told there was a down side to running them, so I've been trying to get rpms up each time out.
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Originally Posted by Ran-Dom 32
(Post 2550374)
well, I added a pair of merc pressure relief valves, & a pair of 140 T-stats with 4 3/16 holes, went out for a test run & water temp was steady 130-135, oil looks good, & the valves were pumping water above 4 grand, next time out I will run a psi gauge just to verify my water pressure
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yes,
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3 Attachment(s)
This is what I'm running for water pressure. $30 and a little modification and ten times better that the Merc platsic valve. All bronze.
16lbs at 3800 rpm and 20lbs at wot. The installed pic is before I modifed it. |
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