Blower Upgrade
#21
Dont forget this.. the fuel tank is just in front of the crank. Cant move that too easily. I never measured it, but maybe you should have someone close you into the bilge and measure the clearance between the the hatch and the front of the engine. Do you think the pulley of a roots style charger would clear the hatch? Not concerned about the top, but the front is where it will get tight. For instance, my closed cooling tank comes real close to the hatch.
#22
Dont forget this.. the fuel tank is just in front of the crank. Cant move that too easily. I never measured it, but maybe you should have someone close you into the bilge and measure the clearance between the the hatch and the front of the engine. Do you think the pulley of a roots style charger would clear the hatch? Not concerned about the top, but the front is where it will get tight. For instance, my closed cooling tank comes real close to the hatch.
I just took some measurements. It appears the belt assembly is approximately 3 inches from the tank wall. The crank is above the wall but the water pump dips below the wall. I would assume everything attached to the serpentine belt gets moved forward. Is that correct? Maybe the blower will not work.
Rob
#24
Anything less than 28* on your timing will work against you and create lots of heat into the exhaust. Good thing you have inconel exhausts..
As said, you're better to find a cam/boost combo that allows you to run the available fuel at effective timing numbers like 32*.
Accessory drives are available to get you functional at your current crank/fuel tank location. Also, your blower drive on a 250 is in FRONT of your existing accessory belting. Water pump should stay in normal position.
Water injection is great, but you don't see it very often. At low boost and moderate performance, you don't need it.
I'll take a 250 over a 177 any day. It's got extra reserves for when you decide to bolt it on a 502 (a 177 just ain't enough for much of a 502). It's easier to sell if you decide to do that.
Yeah, a 177 will have to work extra hard to get you where you are talking about going, but that's maxed out. You're already going to be above the thermal efficiency curve on it. At the same power levels, you will require higher octane fuel with the 177 than with the 250 due to the mechanical heat you're gonna whip into it. Also, with the additional heat from the 177, 5 pounds of boost will give less HP than 5 pounds from the 250.
If you're looking for 600 HP though, I honestly don't think 5 pounds of boost will get you there with your current setup.
You'll be needing to BORE NOTCH, and spin the motor closer to 5600.
1050 carb is a lot of carb for that motor, but it's very tunable and well suited to the application.
go get em.
mc
As said, you're better to find a cam/boost combo that allows you to run the available fuel at effective timing numbers like 32*.
Accessory drives are available to get you functional at your current crank/fuel tank location. Also, your blower drive on a 250 is in FRONT of your existing accessory belting. Water pump should stay in normal position.
Water injection is great, but you don't see it very often. At low boost and moderate performance, you don't need it.
I'll take a 250 over a 177 any day. It's got extra reserves for when you decide to bolt it on a 502 (a 177 just ain't enough for much of a 502). It's easier to sell if you decide to do that.
Yeah, a 177 will have to work extra hard to get you where you are talking about going, but that's maxed out. You're already going to be above the thermal efficiency curve on it. At the same power levels, you will require higher octane fuel with the 177 than with the 250 due to the mechanical heat you're gonna whip into it. Also, with the additional heat from the 177, 5 pounds of boost will give less HP than 5 pounds from the 250.
If you're looking for 600 HP though, I honestly don't think 5 pounds of boost will get you there with your current setup.
You'll be needing to BORE NOTCH, and spin the motor closer to 5600.
1050 carb is a lot of carb for that motor, but it's very tunable and well suited to the application.
go get em.
mc
#25
#26
As I said, I have almost no experience with blowers. The most I have done with them, is take them off my friends 575SC's and send them to the blower shop for rebuild. If my memory is correct, on his 575's, the blower belt is the outer most belt, the accessories are in there stock location. Sounds like its going to be time to get out the butter to squeeze this engine in. 

#27
Registered

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 825
Likes: 30
From: Antioch, IL
The boat is a 2000 Checkmate 259 Convincor we bought new in 2002. The original power was a 454MAG(MPI) in front of a Bravo Drive w/ a Mirage Plus 23 pitch prop. The boat currently has 265 hours on it. At 215 hours we upgraded the motor with a Stainless Marine exhaust system, roller cam, 2.25 intake valves, 1.89 Inconel exhaust valves, new valve springs, locks and seals, milled the heads .020, roller rocker arms, rocker studs, pushrods, valve job and changed the prop to a 26 Bravo labbed. The engine was dynoed at 461HP (5100RPMs) and 514lbs/tq (3800RPMs). The upgraded motor has 50 hours on it. The engine was upgraded by Tyler Crockett and runs great. The boat also has full hydraulic steering and HP trim tabs. I feel the boat can handle more power. I am thinking about installing a Blowershop 250 blower w/ a single 1050 blower carb 5lbs boost, an oil cooler and a MSD ignition. The combo should make around 600HP. I have always wanted a roots style blower. The valve train only has 50 hours on it. The boat is used for all purpose recreational boating. It needs to idle well, start consistenly and run well in most conditions. I am expecting 200 hours out of this engine and drive with this upgrade. Is this upgrade and expectation reasonable with this setup? Is changing the fuel injection to a carb setup crazy? Anything I am missing. Any thoughts and/or opinions would be appreciated.
I run a similar setup with a ProCharger. I have aluminum Edelbrock heads and a more radical cam, also upgraded fuel system to include injectors.. With a 7lb pully made an easy 710 HP and 727 ft lb torque. Not a bad way to go. Tyler dynoed it talk to him.
Bob
#28
Rob
#29
[QUOTE=RBeyer;2571545]I run a similar setup with a ProCharger. I have aluminum Edelbrock heads and a more radical cam, also upgraded fuel system to include injectors.. With a 7lb pully made an easy 710 HP and 727 ft lb torque. Not a bad way to go. Tyler dynoed it talk to him.
Bob[/QUOTE
What prop are running now with 700HP? We still use your old 24 Hydromotive.
Bob[/QUOTE
What prop are running now with 700HP? We still use your old 24 Hydromotive.
#30
Registered
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,554
Likes: 3
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Vinny, yes it can be done seen a couple done, I have pics showing what has to be cut behind the seat..but yes, very close for sure..there are 2 blown 251's running around me with big blowers, one ran well over 100 at the radar run a year ago...the other never straitened out but ran in the 90's, Rob




