My bravo is the original drive off 1989 24' Arriva. I have changed the gear oil yearly, lubed the u joints as well and replaced the input shaft once due to getting in some sand and twisting it a little @ w.o.t. on my 650 HP motor five years ago. Same drive since 1989 on four motors. stock 330 HP for six years. 500 HP for another two years. 700 HP for three more and now 900++ HP blown 500CI. for two years with absolutely NO PROBLEMS! If you don't treat the boat like a dragster and are somewhat kind to the drive it will last! Going on 20 years now, same drive no major repairs and I've run it above 6200 RPM for somewhat extended periods with no failures. I goose it out of the hole once in a while, ski with it a whole lot, run it hard a whole lot as well. Yes, your Bravo will hold up! Be nice to it!!!!

If you have external steering it will hold up a lot better.
Without it you will have to replace the gimbal about every 2-4 seasons.

From 91-2006 I hit a bravo 1 with 500hp and 500ft/lb in about a 2500lb boat, and never broke anything but hammered enough play into the gimbal to replace it three times.

BUT as the guys above say I was "nice" to it.

Wanna do a quick check to see how worn it is? Go outside right now and grab the bottom of the skeg and lift up- Anything over 1/16" play is not good.

IF you keep it in the water/dont jump it, Id say you'll get 2-3 seasons before a rebuild with 575 on that heavy boat. I don't think you'll "snap" anything with 575 if you treat it sanely but its fast wear that's your enemy. Get a drive shower.

Good luck.

Uncle Dave

Laveycraft 2750 - Ilmor 710
Laveycraft 20.8 Sebring 406 SB
Fleetwood nitrous toy hauler
Yamaha raptor-700/Kawi-KFX 450
Nissan Titan

I've got a drive shower on it, and it has dual ram external steering, but i have noticed some slop up and down.

Better go get it checked out seasons winding down anyway (unless you live in so cal like me or florida)

You'd think Id remember what the spec actually is after replacing so many of them. (I dont do my own drive work & thats why they call it "dope")

Depending on whats wearing you may be able to shim it extending parts life before replacement- this kind of wear will get worse with added torque.

I hammered about 2" into one and was running way to fast to be without steering so long. Could have been catastrophic.

2 seasons ago I switched to a B-1 XR with an ITS steering system.

Uncle Dave

Laveycraft 2750 - Ilmor 710
Laveycraft 20.8 Sebring 406 SB
Fleetwood nitrous toy hauler
Yamaha raptor-700/Kawi-KFX 450
Nissan Titan

Is the gimbal bearing the shaft in the upper and the bushing in the lowwer?

What can i do to this drive to get me by for a season or two besides running Royal Purple and other than easy hole shots?

If it's got some hours on it, I'd have it gone thru & reshimmed by someone that knows what they're doing with high performance drives. Their inspection may turn up a yet-to-happen life-ending issue.

A drive shower and a billet top cap would go a long way too.

I've already got the drive shower on. But what is the billet top cap you refer to? How would that help? Thanks in advance for the info.

P.S. According to the oil thread a couple down, Royal Purple is not the best gear lub. Looks like the Amsoil Servere 75/90 is the way to go............??

http://www.billetmarine.com/Our%20Products.htm

The top cap is a weak area. It's where the bevel gears from the input shaft and the downshaft meet. The harder you push bevel gears, the harder they try to push away from each other. A heavier top cap minimuzes that deflection.

On oils, look up posts by "hydrocruiser" or PM him. he's our official oil guy. I was talking to the guys at Konrad and they swear by the Royal Purple. It's what ships inside their drives. They do primarily commercial and military applications and have a great warranty. I doubt they'd be skimping on oil.