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Originally Posted by raeburn
(Post 2686293)
My engine builder recommends using GM's Delco Engine Oil Supplement in the initial break-in. GM ships it with their crate motors, supposed to be good stuff, especially for lifters/valves/cams. I've used it in my last two engines and they ran great.
ZDDP additive..it is good. |
Originally Posted by BillK
(Post 2686816)
This should be true in any properly machined and assembled engine, I dont care if you use the cheapest oil you can buy. The metal particles are from something that was not smoothed or deburred prior to assembly. One of the biggest culprits is the bottom edge of the cylinder bores. Most shops bore and hone the block and leave it at that. The sharp edge that remains will always scrape some aluminum off the nice new ($$) pistons :( We run a sanding roll around every block we do to break this edge. This is just one spot where metal can come from. A good engine builder will make sure there are no sharp edges anywhere.
The other source of metal is from insufficient cleaning prior to assembly. I dont care how hard you try, there is always a few specs of metal floating around from surfacing heads etc. The only way to get them out is with lots of hot soapy water. We very rarely see anything at all in our filters on new engines that I assemble. As far as the Gibbs oil goes, I think it is designed more for engines with flat tappet (non roller) camshafts. It is excellent for that purpose, but I dont think it is really needed for a hydraulic roller engine. Any good quality oil should be fine. Personally, I think the best oil should be installed from the very start. If cylinder walls are properly finished, the rings really should be almost sealed up on the engine stand. GM puts Mobil1 in every Cadillac and Corvette from the factory with no oil consuption issues. I have used it from the start in several engines with no issues whatsoever. Just my opinion, Bill Koustenis Advanced Automotive Machine Waldorf Md |
[QUOTE
Iv Been told a few times alto of engine builders use a diesel oil that has sulfur in it for better break in.[/QUOTE] Diesel oil or for that matter any engine oil does not have sulfur in it. Gear oil, thats another story. what do you think gives gear oil (GL-5) its odor? If you had sulfur in you engine oil, condensation from running, combined with the heat from the engine would creat sulfuric acid and that is something you really don't want in your crankcase. Yes, engine oil is blended as a base (thats way they list TBN numbers) to counter act the effect of acid build up, there is some acid from the sulfer in fuel but even those numbes have been lowered drasticly, diesel included. But to add sulfer in the oil, no way. GM- EOS, a slug of zinc in a base oil. Ken |
Steve
A bunch of my guys have been using the JG break in oil with really good results... |
Hey Steve....
540, hydraulic roller cam here... Express Engines recommends VV851. But you can only get it from Napa; and $10 a quart for dino-oil. Kent |
Originally Posted by BillK
(Post 2686816)
This should be true in any properly machined and assembled engine, I dont care if you use the cheapest oil you can buy. The metal particles are from something that was not smoothed or deburred prior to assembly. One of the biggest culprits is the bottom edge of the cylinder bores. Most shops bore and hone the block and leave it at that. The sharp edge that remains will always scrape some aluminum off the nice new ($$) pistons :( We run a sanding roll around every block we do to break this edge. This is just one spot where metal can come from. A good engine builder will make sure there are no sharp edges anywhere.
The other source of metal is from insufficient cleaning prior to assembly. I dont care how hard you try, there is always a few specs of metal floating around from surfacing heads etc. The only way to get them out is with lots of hot soapy water. We very rarely see anything at all in our filters on new engines that I assemble. As far as the Gibbs oil goes, I think it is designed more for engines with flat tappet (non roller) camshafts. It is excellent for that purpose, but I dont think it is really needed for a hydraulic roller engine. Any good quality oil should be fine. Personally, I think the best oil should be installed from the very start. If cylinder walls are properly finished, the rings really should be almost sealed up on the engine stand. GM puts Mobil1 in every Cadillac and Corvette from the factory with no oil consuption issues. I have used it from the start in several engines with no issues whatsoever. Just my opinion, Bill Koustenis Advanced Automotive Machine Waldorf Md |
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