Need HELP with lower unit
 

I have a mess on my hands. I determined that the carrier bearing (1988 bravo 1) needed to be changed due to water infiltration. I removed the large retaining nut, tab washer and started trying to get the carrier out. So far I've:

Bought the merc tool and it didn't work at all. The jaw just bent back

Made a puller with a harmonic balancer puller and some 12" bolts. Ground heads so the head make hooks. Hooks broke off.

Rented a slide hammer and hammered the crap out of it in all directions with heat and PB blaster. Nada

Bought a $100 extended reach external gear puller. Applied liberal PB blaster, heated housing, applied tension slowly while tapping end of prop shaft then, adding tension. Ripped ribs right off carrier assembly.

Now I have nothing to grab onto. Question; can I remove the prop shaft and carrier together? I was thinking of using a piece of large diameter tubing and some creative fixturing that would result in me being able to use the prop shaft nut as a puller, much like my manual says to pull a frozen prop shaft. Only difference is I need to pull the carrier, bearing, shaft and everything.

Any suggsetion would be waaaaaaaaaaay appreciated! I'm almost beat and you guys are my last hope. Maybe I am missing something obvious (i hope please, please, please).

BT

Hammering on the carrier doesn't work you need a steady pull. I always just used two prybars and wood blocks so as not to damage to drive case.

Sounds like you tried everything except dynamite!! Sorry, but I haven't got any other ideas either.

I like that idea tinkerboat. Kinda like a claw hammer pulling a nail. Now that I have all the ribs broke out I have plently of room for pry bars.

No input on it I can pull the carrier, propshaft and all in one operation?

I think whoever installed this carrier used loctite or something on it. I can see a little something on the carrier. Is that normal?

BT

BT, yes you can pull on the prop shaft. In a pinch you can even use the prop nut. Pain in the butt as you have to keep adding to your stack. I have a tool we made with a thrust bearing for under the nut.

wow bummer Now you know why I am so hesitant to rip my lowers apart. I found my leak anyway. It was a bad counterbore fot the seal of the dip stick on my top cover. Did you see those parts on ebay? He was selling propshaft and carrier for $375 I think.

Tried your suggestion tinkerboat. Couldn't get a good grip with the prybar, so I drilled small holes to help. Ripped the end of the carrier housing off that holds the two seals. Nice try... no dice.

Thanks for the confirm mbam on using the prop shaft to pull the whole kip and cabotal out. I have no other play than that at this point. Started messing around with your idea using wood spacers just to see what would happen. Got nothing but crushed wood. Will need to switch to aluminum spacers. Gonna try some old alpha thrust washers to help with galling under nut.

Great news Formula31, glad to hear you found the problem. Avoid this deal like the plague. I'm pretty sure the carrier is my leaker now. When I ripped the seal housing to smitherings there was water/goo in between the two seals. Definately one of them, probably both had failed.

Thanks again for all the help. If you get anymore good ideas, let me know,

BT

Mine always just come apart with the pry bars and wood. I have never seen one stuck that bad. If you have an old prop put it on but put alot of shimms between the prop and the case then use big washers and a PROPNUT (brass will strip without damaging the shaft) to pull the whole assembly out -don't use the thrust washer. as it breaks loose add larger shimms between the prop and the case.

Drill two holes into the housing directly into the carrier it has 2 wing like areas(your not going to screw up the housing because it doesn't matter in this area) get a puller and make straps and bolt them to the carrier,pull off of the propshalf with your puller. Good luck Doug

A friend of mine does a lot of gearcases and he made up a slide hammer with threads to screw on to the end of the prop shaft and uses it to break the carrier loose before using a puller on the carrier, still use heat, I've used it on my Outboard cases and it works good, on them you can only pull the shaft out alittle ways but it breaks the carrier loose. I think on a Bravo you could pull it all the way out with the slide hammer. His shaft on the hammer is as large as the propshaft with an 8-10 pound slide.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Caleb

Not sure what you had for a Merc carrier puller but the one that I have you can put 600ft lbs on and it will not break. Man this is quite a mess ya got. The first thig I would do it get yourself two torches. I am talking real ones not the kind you get at home depot. The alluminum cools down to quickly for regular torches. Be carefull with the OX-torches as you can melt the allum. easily. Then heat the crap out of it and then try to pull it out. The part that is givine you no doubt your problem is way up inside the carrier. If you take a flashlight and shine it in there you will see the back of the carrier that is were you want to heat it up. As far as pulling on the prop shaft I do not think so. I know on the outboards that is not something you can do. There is a gear that comes down and sits on the drive shaft then you have your prop shaft gear that is behind it. If you pull on the prop shaft you may be pulling one gear into the other and ruin some expensive gears. May want to look into that some more.

Jon

Well, I tried every suggestion everyone gave. I was down to Audiofn's suggestion. Lotsa heat. Went out and bougt two cylinder of MAPP gas. Set one up on each side of the noseccone in line with the back of the carrier. Put a prop on the shaft with spacers, started tightening the prop nut, and bang.... everything came out... shaft, bearings, carrier, seals, everything. Man what a bueatifil sight!!!

As alway, you all led me down the right path. I was near taking it to a "boat mechanic" to get straightened out. You all saved me from that aggrivation. Thanks to all the replies to this post

:) :) :) :)

BT:cool:

yeah, congrats. did you check out the ebay thing for the parts?

Sounds like the prop shaft may have been siezed into the front bearing.

Yeah Formula I did. The only one I was wasn't for my drive.. don't remember the specifics, but thanks for the tip.

Tinderboat.. Yeah I think it was that and the loctite or whatever was put on the carrier housing. Heat is defiantely the trick for a fourteen year old drive.

Mucho graicias amigos,

BT :cool:

BT, let me know what parts you need and I will see what I can come up with for you. How are the retainer threads in the housing? I have a giant thread chaser that I would be willing to lend you.

To clean the threads to see if you need that giant thread chaser get a wire brush and go around WITH the treads. If the nut came out ok then you likly do not need it. If the nut came out hard you may have galling on the threads. Lets hope that is not the case. I ussually NEVER try and wind the nut out I always drill it and break it. That way you do not ruin the threads. :D:D Just a hint for next time. I have see drives ruined because people did not drill and break the nut.

Jon

Audiofn.. I drilled and broke the nut out. Threads are ok for the most part. Buggered up one small spot with a prybar during the "battle" to remove the carrier. I was able to run the new nut down after cleanup with a rotaty wire wheel. You were right on with the heat. The merc tool I bought would have worked well with the proper heat applied.

mbam... I could use a thread chaser, but don't absolutely need it. Thanks for the offer, it would be too big a PIA to ship it back and forth. Quite generaous of you!! I ordered the bearing, race , and back seal from BAM.

I only have one more question... then I'll shut up. Is there a proper way to dress the small wear marks made by the two bearing carrier seals? Maybe best to do nothing, but was wondering.... don't want to create any more messes!! ;)

BT

How deep are the groves in the prop shaft from the seals? If you can easily feel them with your fingernail then I would just replace the shaft to be on the safe side. With the groves you are making the shaft smaller and weaker. Also you will have less tension on the seal surfaces and you may end up with water in your new repaired drive.

Tinkerboat... the grooves are more of a polished spot on the shaft. I can barely if at all feel them with a fingernail. I got no dectable difference in OD measurement from polished area to original area, although I'm sure there is some, probably less than a thousanth on the diameter. I think I'll clean the area up with some emery cloth and call it good to go. Thanks for the input.

BT

BT, thanks for ordering the parts from us. We do apreciate the bussiness.

Sounds like your shaft is OK, but if you have access to a lathe you can spin it and put a nice polish on it with 280 or 320 grit.

mbam... didn't realize you were with BAM. I gotta be reaching preffered customer status with all the parts I been ordering! You can send the thread chaser along with my order... that would be sweet!! Just a thought. I will chuck my shaft up and polish as you suggested. Thanks for the advise.

BT

Sure, I can do that. Call myself or Heather tommorrow, we will figure out the best way to ship it back. It will only take 2 minutes to run it through the threads.

mbam... what is the number? How late are you there? I', in a saminar the next three days so its gonna be tough to call, but I can try. Thanks again,

Dave

We are usually at the shop until 6 EST, 954 321 0606

Maybe Mark can better answer this question, but do you have to reshim the drive when you put in a new bearing carrier?

Jon

Not really, but you do have to set the preload on the prop shaft. If you give me a call (954 321 0606) I can walk you through it, but I am such a lousy typist it would take me all day to post it here. I will try and put an explanation on my go-fast.com site in the next couple of days.

Thanks Marc, the thread chaser worked great. I would of have a hell of a time without it!!

BT