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Originally Posted by ezstriper
(Post 2714828)
from what I see I would change the oil pump for sure...not matter how it looks...looks to me something was trying to lock up in that area...how does the dist/cam gears look ?..yes I do remeber your other post...good luck..Rob
Yes, new pump is going in. Gears on distributor and cam look fine, no signs of binding. |
You better get more people involved before you re-assemble. Two things failing at different ends of the engine but the cam is unaffected and in good condition? You cant chalk it up to the oil pump shaft fatigue - I just dont believe it would stress the timing chain assy enough to break. I dont see how one could make the other fail... And if it did, what the hell caused it to lose durability. I can see failure or fatige with OEM stuff but not performance level parts. Nothing adds up but I lean toward chain slap - possibly it fatigued too soon.
One thing is for sure! Thank God it didnt happen at 5000 RPM! |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Vinny P
(Post 2716634)
No I didnt, but thats an interesting thought. I have never seen anyone run one on a boat before. I dont think I would do it, but just curious, do you have a few pictures of that set-up?
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I would pay close attenion to the exact lenght of the oil pump shaft. When you re-assemble put the pump and shaft in, then install the distributor while the pan is still off so you can check to see how they are engaging. There should not be much upand down play. As far as the timing, get a good cloyes true roller with a torrington bearing. You should feel lucky you caught it now. It's usually the little things that cauuse the big messes. Good luck I'm sure you"ll figure it out.
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Be careful with cloyes true roller chains,some have split rollers with seams (like the hex adjust). I have used them but bought a different chain for them,Smitty
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Have you actually measured the chain for stretch? As the links stretch, they ride up higher on the teeth. At a certain point they will simply snap the teeth off. Could it be as simple as a bad /defective chain, that started the whole mess?
Darrell. |
Originally Posted by DMOORE
(Post 2716955)
Have you actually measured the chain for stretch? As the links stretch, they ride up higher on the teeth. At a certain point they will simply snap the teeth off. Could it be as simple as a bad /defective chain, that started the whole mess?
Darrell. |
Originally Posted by 2112
(Post 2716755)
Oil pump is obvioulsy at the bottom. Two water pumps. Cam driven for coolant, Eickert for raw.
Wow, there is alot going on in there! :eek: Looks great. |
The bottom line here is, I dont know what caused this failure. I am quite sure that the 2 failures are not related. The gears and chain are on their way back to Isky for his evaluation. My guess is that I simply got a bad cam gear. Hopefully, he will give me a fair evaluation, that will answer this. In any case, I ordered a Jesel belt drive, Teague ( new style ) oil drive, Melling blueprinted oil pump. I cleaned everything out, lines, galleys, cooler, filter head, etc.. I found no significant evidence of metal contamination. It seems that most of the chips of metal were too big to pass through the pick up and remained in the pan. The rest got caught up in the filter.
More to come as things progress.. Thanks for the help :ernaehrung004: |
thanks for the update......good luck !
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